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Off the beaten track Argentina: Remote Puna adventure

Trips to Tailor

13 days from £5,700

per person
Based on two people sharing & excluding flights
A truly extraordinary and adventurous guided expedition to explore virtually uninhabited and exquisite high altitude Andean Atacama desert in Argentina.
What to expect
Itinerary

Explore the tour day by day, from the highlights to the quieter moments in between. Here’s how each day unfolds and what to expect along the way.

Day 1 - Buenos Aires
Arrive Buenos Aires.

You’ll be staying in a central hotel. Buenos Aires is probably the most cosmopolitan metropolis in South America. Certainly it looks more European than the others: wide boulevards, Italianate architecture, art deco cafeterias and designer label shops. This seductive (though in some places following economic difficulties a bit shabby) city oozes atmosphere and nostalgia, with its colonial buildings, antique markets, shady squares and tango halls.

This modern property boasts stylishly eclectic décor and personalised service. Kenton Palace’s 80 rooms and public areas are light and uncluttered, with furnishings conveying a contemporary urban feel. Guestrooms have city or courtyard views and are equipped with super-sleek bathrooms with freestanding bathtubs and rain showers.

One of the hotel’s greatest assets is its location; slap bang in the centre of town, a stroll away from the main sights, restaurants and bars. Radiating outwards from the vicinity of the hotel are a broad array of attractive and lively areas, such as the Plaza de Mayo, the bohemian San Telmo district, the new port development at Puerto Madero and the boutiques and eateries of Recoleta.

Hotel amenities include an impressive range of facilities for children. It also has a spa, with spotless heated pool, Jacuzzi, gym, sauna and massage services.

Day 2 - Buenos Aires
Guided walking tour of Retiro and Recoleta.

In the early 20th century the city’s aristocracy enjoyed huge prosperity. Looking to the Old World for inspiration, leading families copied the graceful architecture of belle époque France, covering the upmarket residential areas of Retiro and Recoleta with palatial façades lining shady cobbled boulevards. This walking tour takes you to former palaces and mansions which now have much more practical functions; the Military Society, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the  National Parks HQ.  Follow meandering Arroyo street with its art galleries, and finally stroll down the illustrious Avenida Alvear.

This modern property boasts stylishly eclectic décor and personalised service. Kenton Palace’s 80 rooms and public areas are light and uncluttered, with furnishings conveying a contemporary urban feel. Guestrooms have city or courtyard views and are equipped with super-sleek bathrooms with freestanding bathtubs and rain showers.

One of the hotel’s greatest assets is its location; slap bang in the centre of town, a stroll away from the main sights, restaurants and bars. Radiating outwards from the vicinity of the hotel are a broad array of attractive and lively areas, such as the Plaza de Mayo, the bohemian San Telmo district, the new port development at Puerto Madero and the boutiques and eateries of Recoleta.

Hotel amenities include an impressive range of facilities for children. It also has a spa, with spotless heated pool, Jacuzzi, gym, sauna and massage services.

Day 3 - Salta
Fly to Salta. Afternoon guided walking tour.

The city of Salta is renowned for its colonial architecture, friendly population and claret-red ponchos. It lies at the foot of the eastern slopes of the Andes, in the only Argentine region where vestiges of indian heritage are still visible.
Your guided walking tour of the attractive city introduces you to some lovely baroque colonial buildings including the sumptuous cathedral on the main square. You’ll also enjoy views over the view of the city from San Bernardo Hill reached by cable car.

Colonial Salta is rich with colonial mansions. Once family residences, many of which – like this one – have now been converted into small and friendly hotels. The mid-range property has a great location close to the historical centre, but is a peaceful oasis with a charming palm-shaded garden embellished with lawns and pretty pot plants set around a terrace framing an outdoor pool.

Guest rooms are bright, cheerful and a bit retro, with a simple style which nods both to colonial Spanish elegance and a provincial guest house. However, they are well equipped with modern facilities. The suites have Jacuzzi bathtubs and junior suites feature both living room and balcony. Other facilities include a cosy sitting room, breakfast room, snack bar and TV lounge. It is popular among European visitors and families are welcome.

Day 4
At leisure in Salta. Optional day walks.

We recommend a visit to the MAAM (High Altitude Archaeology) Museum which reverently displays one or more of the perfectly preserved mummies of sacrificed children found high in the Andes.

If you fancy a trip out of town, there are some good day walks in the Salta region which we can pre-book for you. Nearby San Lorenzo has trails leading into cloud-forested hills which are popular with local people at weekends.  For more of a work-out, another option is an energetic hike on the higher-altitude Cuesta del Obispo with impressive mountain views.

Colonial Salta is rich with colonial mansions. Once family residences, many of which – like this one – have now been converted into small and friendly hotels. The mid-range property has a great location close to the historical centre, but is a peaceful oasis with a charming palm-shaded garden embellished with lawns and pretty pot plants set around a terrace framing an outdoor pool.

Guest rooms are bright, cheerful and a bit retro, with a simple style which nods both to colonial Spanish elegance and a provincial guest house. However, they are well equipped with modern facilities. The suites have Jacuzzi bathtubs and junior suites feature both living room and balcony. Other facilities include a cosy sitting room, breakfast room, snack bar and TV lounge. It is popular among European visitors and families are welcome.

Day 5 - Purmamarca
Your expedition begins: drive to Purmamarca.

Your guide and vehicle for your private expedition will meet you at your hotel, where you will have a briefing (the briefing may be the previous evening). The adventurous road trip begins with a scenic journey to the sunlit Humahuaca gorge, one of north-west Argentina’s better-known attractions, where you spend the first night in the quaint village of Purmamarca.

Purmamarca is a small town in the gorge, whose multi-coloured eroded rock faces and hillsides make it one of the most stunning arid landscapes on earth. At 2,400m, the town is set at the foot of the aptly named Hill of the Seven Colours, and has a church consecrated in 1648, which you will see on your tour of the village, along with the handicraft market. Later, stop in Tilcara and visit an archaeological museum and the ruins of Pucara. Continue through other delightful villages  before arriving at picturesque Humahuaca. There is plenty of free time to enjoy its narrow cobbled streets and adobe colonial buildings, before driving back to Purmamarca.

La Comarca Hotel, Purmamarca, Jujuy Province, Argentina

La Comarca has picturesquely scattered adobe-style buildings which comprise this pleasant mid-range hotel are built using regional stone, wood and clay and painted in pastel shades that blend right into the Technicolor landscape. They sit amongst lovely landscaped grounds of tall trees, cacti, wild grasses and desert flowers.

There are standard rooms and individual cottages – the latter have a living area, kitchenette and terrace. All are stylishly decorated, with splashes of colour and local handicrafts. There is a restaurant, bar and wine cellar that holds wine-tasting sessions. Leisure facilities include a heated swimming pool, sauna, Jacuzzi and small spa offering massages and beauty treatments.

Day 6 - Tolar Grande
Enter the Puna: drive to Tolar Grande.

Climb a winding road into the high Andes, the increasingly arid and empty landscape becoming ever more bleakly beautiful. You reach the rim of Salinas Grandes, a vast, flat and gleaming-white pan of natural salt, which is still mined today.Continue to the remote village San Antonio de los Cobres. The otherwise stripped-bare landscape is relieved by a few wind-torn areas of tufty grass, clinging to life on a dusty plain, hemmed in by the exposed ribs of naked, ochre mountains. The road then climbs through barren hills and past lonely churches to the highest point on today’s journey at 4,500m. Here, you’ll begin to spot tiny ghost villages and halts associated with an abandoned railway line.

Rise to a flat plain via a gorge between conical, deeply rust-red hills, Los Colorados, and cross the uncompromising Desierto del Diablo (Devil’s Desert), populated only by flocks of vicuñas, to the modest hamlet Tolar Grande, 3,500m, where you spend two nights in a modest but cosy guest house.

Today’s drive on gravel roads will take 6-8 hours or longer – as on the other days, you will be tempted to step out of the vehicle at the many scenic spots along the way.

Arg_Salta_Puna_El_Penon_DN_Free
Hosteria Casa Andina

This simple hostel is the only formal accommodation of the isolated village of Tolar Grande in the chilly, high altitude Puna desert in Argentina’s north-west.

For such a remote spot, this friendly and cosy property is a comfort for visitors, owned and managed by the local community. It’s simple but attractive inside with tiled floors and beamed ceilings.

Although the guest house is not staffed during the day, you’ll get a warm welcome when you arrive. There are just four compact guest rooms and a suite; each with heating and hot water shower. The plain white walls and tiled floors are offset by classic puna tones of slate and red in their fabrics.

One of the nicest things about this little hotel is its relaxing lounge, heated by a wood burning stove, with sofas and a complimentary tea/coffee station. Simple meals, including breakfast are taken at either of the two comedors (simple eateries) within 100m of the hostel.

Day 7
Explore the Puna from Tolar Grande.

There are two options for today. The first takes you to the abandoned settlements and ghost mines which stud the desert, dwarfed by the off-the-scale grandeur of the natural environment. These include Caipe, a haunting abandoned railway settlement and a very atmospheric place – a forlorn, rusting locomotive on the track, piles of sulphur, discarded railway timetables dating back to the 1970s in the former ticket office.  Further on, beyond salt flats with sweeping views of a bowl of rose-hued mountains is Mina la Casualidad (4,100m) where deserted houses, a church, a shop and a school playground are all overshadowed by the gigantic rusting hulks of the mine’s crumbling infrastructure.  After a picnic lunch you may climb even higher to Mina Julia at a chilly 5,200m: it may be snowed in, but the snow-blanched scenery alone is worth the effort to get there.

The second, less ambitious option takes you first to the Ojos de Mar, close to Tolar Grande. These salt-encrusted circular freshwater pools, a splash of gemstone turquoise with a tawny backdrop, are a stunning sight in the sunlight of dawn or dusk when the mountains are reflected on the surface.

Hosteria Casa Andina

This simple hostel is the only formal accommodation of the isolated village of Tolar Grande in the chilly, high altitude Puna desert in Argentina’s north-west.

For such a remote spot, this friendly and cosy property is a comfort for visitors, owned and managed by the local community. It’s simple but attractive inside with tiled floors and beamed ceilings.

Although the guest house is not staffed during the day, you’ll get a warm welcome when you arrive. There are just four compact guest rooms and a suite; each with heating and hot water shower. The plain white walls and tiled floors are offset by classic puna tones of slate and red in their fabrics.

One of the nicest things about this little hotel is its relaxing lounge, heated by a wood burning stove, with sofas and a complimentary tea/coffee station. Simple meals, including breakfast are taken at either of the two comedors (simple eateries) within 100m of the hostel.

Day 8 - El Penon
Further explorations of the Puna en route to El Peñon.

Set off towards across the salt pan towards the Cono de Arita, a symmetrical black basalt cone rising out of the white salt desert. It’s 110m high and so perfect in form that it looks man-made, and is admired by New Agers for it magical properties. The gravel track continues with multi-faceted views of the cono and rainbow-hued hills rich with minerals and tiny plants. You may spot small herds of vicuña and donkeys along the way.

Arriving at the Salar de Antofalla, the largest salt lake in Argentina, the road descends into the white oblivion of the salt-flats, continuing across rock-strewn desert.  Arrive at Antofalla (pop. 40), an ancient oasis village where centuries-old adobe dwellings line the dusty streets leading to an exquisite white church. The road begins to climb steeply towards today’s highest point, 4,600m, where farmed llamas graze on a high plateau of golden tufty grass. The descent begins towards the settlement Antofagasta de la Sierra, set on a vast plain of around 200 black basalt volcanic cones.

You may spend the night at the basic hotel here or continue to El Peñon. (3,400m, pop 300)  another quiet settlement with traditional adobe houses, a small plaza, and welcome splashes of green thanks to the poplar trees that are a feature of the small villages in this province.

Arg_Salta_Puna_Cono_de_Arita_DN_Free (62)

This friendly, community-owned property is the closest the remote salty wilderness of Argentina’s northwest Andes (Puna) gets to rustic-chic. It is a comfortable, homely and small adobe-brick inn just five minutes’ walk from the plaza in the quiet rural village of El Peñon.  It has just a handful of spacious guest rooms, well-heated by unusual exterior wood burning stoves. The dining room has a warm and welcoming feel with native textiles hanging from adobe walls and an open fire with a couple of relaxing armchairs.

Breakfast is continental-style homemade biscuits and pastries, and the hotel serves simple dinners. There’s a weak wifi signal in the dining room – but don’t rely on a connection.

Day 9
Explore the unique, pearl-white pumice fields.

Today you discover one of the Puna’s most unique, surreal and breath-taking highlights: the dazzling Campo de Piedra Pomez (pumice stone field). Arrive first at towering snow-white dunes where you can relax or hike on the untrodden rippling sand, climbing along the ridge which shimmers against a cobalt blue desert sky. The views across the desert plateau towards the contorted rock of the luminous pumice field and pitch-black lava rocks are astounding. On a clear day you can picnic here.

Continue to the vast pumice fields themselves and wander through the silent canyons and wind-eroded crevasses. Later in the afternoon (Oct-Apr only) you can drive on to the Laguna Grande (3,500m), home to one of the world’s largest populations of James flamingos. It’s an extraordinary sight.  Return to El Peñon.

This friendly, community-owned property is the closest the remote salty wilderness of Argentina’s northwest Andes (Puna) gets to rustic-chic. It is a comfortable, homely and small adobe-brick inn just five minutes’ walk from the plaza in the quiet rural village of El Peñon.  It has just a handful of spacious guest rooms, well-heated by unusual exterior wood burning stoves. The dining room has a warm and welcoming feel with native textiles hanging from adobe walls and an open fire with a couple of relaxing armchairs.

Breakfast is continental-style homemade biscuits and pastries, and the hotel serves simple dinners. There’s a weak wifi signal in the dining room – but don’t rely on a connection.

Day 10 - Cafayate
Leave the Puna and descend to Cafayate.

Today your ultimate destination is the agreeable town of Cafayate, centre of a thriving wine region. Arriving here is a pleasant way to reintegrate into the modern world.

Leaving the Puna behind, you’ll travel up to the last high altitude pass (4,000m), with views over the pumice field and flocks of vicuña – one of just a few sightings of animals on the trip, save for domesticated creatures in the villages. From here it’s downhill for over 2km of elevation, descending through canyons and gorges. The temperature rises and the rugged scenery is speckled with giant cacti and framed by multi-coloured mineral-infused mountains.  Pass through small communities and then, below 2,000m, vineyards will start to appear.

Visit the 18th century church at Hualfin, the first major wine-producing town in the valley. You may also have the chance to visit Quilmes pre-Columbian archaeological site, which tells the story of the expulsion by the Spanish of the Quilmes people and their enslavement in Buenos Aires. Some residences and temples have been reconstructed on this large site, located at the foot of steep cliffs.

Enter the Calchaquies Valleys and continue to Cafayate, passing some pretty villages with colonial-era houses. Upon arrival at your hotel in Cafayate, you’ll say goodbye to your driver/guide and trusty 4WD vehicle.

Arg_Salta_Puna_El_Penon_DN_Free
Vinas de Cafayate
Hotel Viñas De Cafayate Wine Resort at night‎, Cafayate, Salta Province, North Argentina

Vinas de Cafayate’s modern property, which has been constructed with  neo-colonial  flair, is situated in the centre of extensive vineyards at the foot of Cerro San Isidro. It’s a stately place, with colonnades shading a terracotta veranda from where you can survey the vines and to granite hills and a ravine beyond. The guest rooms are classically cosy with large bathrooms

Facilities include a large outdoor swimming pool, library, and lounge with open fireplace – it can get a little nippy at night. The smart gourmet restaurant uses produce from its own organic kitchen garden. The establishment doesn’t produce its own wine but it has an impressive wine cellar, from which you can choose an excellent wine to accompany your dinner. 

 

Day 11
At leisure in Cafayate.

Your relaxing hotel, a few kilometres outside town, is a touch of luxury after the simple austerity of the Puna, surrounded by vineyards and with well-tailored gardens and a pool.

Frequently sun-drenched Cafayate, 1,700m, is a focal point of the winelands of the scenic Calchaquíes Valley. It has some first class eateries and a thriving arts and handicrafts scene and is a pleasant place to wander around.

The surrounding bodegas produce some excellent reds, the town is best known for its torrontés, an aromatic dry white wine. Many wineries welcome visitors with tasting sessions; you can take a taxi to visit one, or even walk.

Vinas de Cafayate
Hotel Viñas De Cafayate Wine Resort at night‎, Cafayate, Salta Province, North Argentina

Vinas de Cafayate’s modern property, which has been constructed with  neo-colonial  flair, is situated in the centre of extensive vineyards at the foot of Cerro San Isidro. It’s a stately place, with colonnades shading a terracotta veranda from where you can survey the vines and to granite hills and a ravine beyond. The guest rooms are classically cosy with large bathrooms

Facilities include a large outdoor swimming pool, library, and lounge with open fireplace – it can get a little nippy at night. The smart gourmet restaurant uses produce from its own organic kitchen garden. The establishment doesn’t produce its own wine but it has an impressive wine cellar, from which you can choose an excellent wine to accompany your dinner. 

 

Day 12 - Buenos Aires
Return to Salta airport via Las Conchas Canyon, fly to Buenos Aires.

You’ll be met by another driver for the (paved) journey back to Salta. You might have thought the grand scenery was over, but this journey in itself is remarkably beautiful You travel through the blood-orange Las Conchas canyon, which is characterised by weird rock formations, with evocative names such as the 3 crosses, the amphitheatre and the Devil’s throat. You are heading for the airport and depending on the time of your flight there may be time to stop and investigate these further, and maybe make a quick visit to the community Alemania, an old railway halt with a station which has been spruced up as café. In the 1920 some of the workers on the railroad who lived here came from Germany, hence the name. There were several hundred inhabitants until the railway closed, now only a few families remain but it is an evocative place.

Arrive at the airport and fly to Buenos Aires. Overnight in the city.

This modern property boasts stylishly eclectic décor and personalised service. Kenton Palace’s 80 rooms and public areas are light and uncluttered, with furnishings conveying a contemporary urban feel. Guestrooms have city or courtyard views and are equipped with super-sleek bathrooms with freestanding bathtubs and rain showers.

One of the hotel’s greatest assets is its location; slap bang in the centre of town, a stroll away from the main sights, restaurants and bars. Radiating outwards from the vicinity of the hotel are a broad array of attractive and lively areas, such as the Plaza de Mayo, the bohemian San Telmo district, the new port development at Puerto Madero and the boutiques and eateries of Recoleta.

Hotel amenities include an impressive range of facilities for children. It also has a spa, with spotless heated pool, Jacuzzi, gym, sauna and massage services.

Day 13
Transfer to the airport for international flight.

If your flight is in the evening, you might visit the refurbished port area at Puerto Madero. It is within walking distance of the centre and has a pleasant promenade and some good restaurants for lunch. Alternatively, hop in a taxi to colourful Italian La Boca, famous for its street artists.

Off the beaten track Argentina: Remote Puna adventure full itinerary
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Overview
Places Visited

The places you’ll stay and explore on this tour. Here’s a closer look at each one and what makes it worth the trip.

Discover Argentina’s elegant and energetic capital, where grand European-style architecture, vibrant neighbourhoods, world-class cuisine and the passion of tango come together to create one of South America’s most captivating cities. Dynamic, stylish and nostalgic in equal measure, Buenos Aires is a destination worthy of a trip in its own right.

Buenos Aires

Drive through rust-red canyons to villages, taste crisp Torrontés in the high vineyards of Cafayate, and stand on salt flats that stretch white to the horizon. In Argentina’s remote northwest, Salta is the gateway to a corner of the country that feels closer to Bolivia and Peru, indigenous heritage and extraordinary Andean landscapes.

Salta
Overview
Highlights

Feeling as remote as the wilderness of Amazonia or Antarctica, the Puna de Atacama is a vast, other-worldly, arid landscape of extremes. On your six-day, guided expeditionary road trip you will be almost alone in rarefied, high-altitude desert mountain scenery as alien as the surface of Mars. 

A rugged plateau straddling Argentina and Chile, the Puna has intensely varied scenery with high mountain passes, salt-carpeted depressions and a crescent of volcanoes within which are glass-still lakes, pewter-shaded lava fields, ochre-hued volcanic cones and silvery pumice desert, slashed through by glacial streams. It’s immense: the size of England, dotted with just a handful of hamlets. The region has been inhabited in the past: Inca ruins stab the volcanic peaks and ghost towns – abandoned mining villages – are fascinating to explore.

Your holiday here is bookended with a brief discovery of two of Argentina’s most fascinating historic cities, Buenos Aires and Salta. 

Mary Anne Nelson travel expert

Mary Anne Nelson

Travel Expert

All of our experts have lived or travelled extensively in Latin America, so you will receive unrivalled advice based on unique personal experiences.

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What you need to know
Essentials

The practical detail for this tour, all in one place. Transport, accommodation, what’s included and what to pack, so you know exactly what to expect before you go.

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What's included in the price
Services of our team of experts in our London office
Services of Journey Latin America local representatives and guides
All land and air transport within Latin America
Excursions as specified, including entrance fees
Accommodation as specified
Meals as specified
Excursions as specified, including entrance fees
Taxes and compulsory charges
Included Excursions
Guided walking tour in Buenos Aires
Guided walking tour of Salta
Full day exploration of the Humahuaca gorge
Excursions on the Puna expedition
Optional Quilmes archaeological site (entrance fee not included, you pay at the gate)
What's not included in the price
International flights to Latin America
Tips and gratuities
Meals other than specified
Optional excursions
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Rosie embarked on a year-long backpacking trip across Latin America. She is excited to share her knowledge and experiences with others.

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Finn Clennett
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Finn discovered his passion for travel on an extensive 18-month trip to Latin America, experiencing the vibrant Carnaval in Rio, the end-of-the-world city of Ushuaia, trekking the Andes and volunteering on the Galápagos Islands.

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Maggie visited Latin America on her first backpacking trip when she was 19. Since then, she has taken every opportunity to travel, and has managed to explore a lot of the region in subsequent trips.

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What to do

Things to do

We proudly offer the widest range of activities, excursions and one-of-a-kind experiences across all our destinations, tried and tested personally by our travel experts.

Take a guided stroll around the relaxed city of Salta, with its colonial architecture and leafy plazas.

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A high-altitude expedition to discover the other-worldly Atacama desert  in Argentina.

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Sample celebrated New World wines in the foothills of the North West.

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Explore an otherworldly landscape drenched in colour and dotted with remote adobe villages and pre-Inca ruins.

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Where to stay

Accommodation

Browse our unrivalled portfolio of accommodation. Every option has been carefully chosen by our team of travel experts, so you can rest assured that you will relax in utter comfort

Vinas de Cafayate
Hotel Viñas De Cafayate Wine Resort at night‎, Cafayate, Salta Province, North Argentina

A stately, colonial-style property in the heart of vineyards with top-of-the-range accommodation and gourmet dining with a choice of good local wines.  

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Casa Andina is a cosy little guest house in remote village Tolar Grande in the Argentine Andean desert.

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Hosteria del Altura el Peñon is a small, agreeable hotel in a remote corner of desert in Argentina’s high altitude Andean Puna.

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Holiday extensions

If there’s somewhere you particularly want to go that isn’t included in this tour, we can add on an extension to take you there.

Iguazu from Buenos Aires

One of the continent’s most awe-inspiring attractions, the Iguazú Falls – which straddle the border between Argentina and Brazil – is a vast basalt amphitheatre veiled by a curtain of foaming water which crashes through tangled sub-tropical jungle. This is one of the great must-see highlights of Latin America, indeed the world. Day 1: Fly…

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Our specialists know the best and most unusual places to stay across Latin America.
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A former Journey Latin America tour leader, Sally spent 7 years working, travelling and living throughout Latin America before returning to the UK to help people arrange their own adventures to this wonderful destination.

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Level definitions

Essential
What it means

Stay in comfortable, well-located hotels chosen to keep you close to the action. These are reliable, practical places with everything you need for a good night’s sleep, sometimes a smaller or family-run find, sometimes a larger, more functional hotel. It’s a straightforward style of stay that keeps costs down and leaves more of your budget for the experiences themselves.

Premium
What it means

Return each evening to well-appointed hotels chosen for their comfort and setting. Rooms are spacious and properly equipped, with all the mod cons you’d expect, and facilities to include a restaurant, a bar or lounge, and often a pool or spa to unwind in. It’s an easy, comfortable style of travel, with somewhere relaxed to look forward to each day.

Essential
What it means

Settle into stylish hotels picked for their character, setting and service. That might be a luxurious city hotel like the Loi Suites in Buenos Aires, or somewhere with a setting you won’t forget, a former estancia on the Patagonian steppe or a lodge at the foot of Machu Picchu. This is our most memorable style, where the hotel becomes part of the journey itself.

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