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Self-drive Mexico: Discover Baja California and the Sea of Cortez

Trips to Tailor

12 days from £3,000

per person
Based on two people sharing & excluding flights
Explore the raw desert scenery of Baja Peninsula, its palm-sheltered oases, small colonial mission towns and secret white-sand beaches with the freedom guaranteed by a self-drive hire car.  
What to expect
Itinerary

Explore the tour day by day, from the highlights to the quieter moments in between. Here’s how each day unfolds and what to expect along the way.

Day 1 - Mexico City
Arrive Mexico City, transfer to hotel in historic core.

Your hotel is centrally located right next to the Zócalo, the capital’s massive main square dominated by the monumental Spanish cathedral. Mexico City, known by Mexicans simply as ‘DF’ (Distrito Federal), was built on the site of Tenochtitlan, the focal point of the Aztec empire, and it lies at 2,250m above sea level. Vast, chaotic and vibrant, this sprawling megalopolis of more than 20 million people has a multitude of attractions.

This well regarded hotel’s name drops the hint that it sits right in the centre of the capital’s colonial heart – the huge Zócalo square lorded over by the vast cathedral. From there you have access to a grid of lively streets with shops, restaurants and night-life.

With its ornate 18th century façade contrasting with contemporary interior design and alongside many attractive little personal touches it has many of the facilities of a good business or leisure hotel: office facilities, gym, steam room, cash machine, free parking, complimentary Wifi and even bicycles among other amenities. The décor and furnishings of the rooms, in white and silver, is really striking and there are some subtle Mexican decorative artifacts throughout. There’s access to a high class restaurant (tasting menus, themed dinners) with views over the plaza and the city beyond.

Day 2
Guided tour of Mexico City and Teotihuacan Pyramids.

The arrival of the Spanish conquistadores was seismic event in the story of the Aztec people.  Their magnificent causewayed city was razed, and the invading Spaniards rebuilt it in their own style; the development fuelled by silver mining.  This is all reflected in the cultural vestiges apparent all over the modern-day city which you’ll see during your guided tour. Visit the zócalo, or main square, monumental metropolitan cathedral and national palace with its murals by Diego Rivera.

Later, head into the countryside, driven towards the megalithic archaeological site Teotihuacan. Dating back over 2,000 years, it was once one of the largest cities in the world. It is hugely influential in the historical narrative of modern Mexico and, although abandoned by the time of the Aztecs, even this great empire held it in awe. Stroll along the imposing Avenue of the Dead, leading to the vast Pyramid of the Sun, and climb its vertiginous steps for a panorama of the ruins.

If you have time we suggest you visit the world-class Museum of Anthropology, exhibiting remarkable, well displayed Aztec artefacts alongside items from other ancient civilisations. It’s a fantastic introduction to the superb and sometimes grisly artistic achievements of Mexico’s early inhabitants.

This well regarded hotel’s name drops the hint that it sits right in the centre of the capital’s colonial heart – the huge Zócalo square lorded over by the vast cathedral. From there you have access to a grid of lively streets with shops, restaurants and night-life.

With its ornate 18th century façade contrasting with contemporary interior design and alongside many attractive little personal touches it has many of the facilities of a good business or leisure hotel: office facilities, gym, steam room, cash machine, free parking, complimentary Wifi and even bicycles among other amenities. The décor and furnishings of the rooms, in white and silver, is really striking and there are some subtle Mexican decorative artifacts throughout. There’s access to a high class restaurant (tasting menus, themed dinners) with views over the plaza and the city beyond.

Day 3
Fly to La Paz, collect car, self-drive to Loreto.

Following a flight of around 2.5hrs from Mexico City airport to La Paz, the capital of the Baja Peninsula, you will collect your self-drive car. Head north to Loreto on the Trans-Peninsula Highway, you can’t get lost as it is the only significant road to traverse the whole peninsula from Tijuana in the north to Cabo on the southern tip: over 1,800km. Immediately on leaving La Paz behind you the scenery is characteristically arid, featuring plains pitted with vigilante cacti on either side of the road while the mountains of Sierra Escondida to the right are an impressive backdrop.

At the junction town Cuidad Insurgentes you’ll turn right to drive east along a solitary paved road which, with sharp curves and tight bends, descends through desolate copper-coloured mountains to the rugged coastline at Ensenada Blanca. With the sea and cliffs on one side and the towering gold-green escarpment of Sierra La Giganta on the other, the landscape becomes less relentlessly desolate as you view canyons and the cobalt sea lapping the coastline. There is still little vegetation though the cacti are ever-present.

Your 350km journey today to Loreto should take around five hours, including stops to take in the views, snap a few photos or just breathe in the pure desert air and enjoy the feeling of the sun on your face.

Unusual double-cove/sandbar/sand beach with six campers, a few hikers, at low tide, early spring, Requeson area, Bay of Conception, (Bahia Concepciion) at the Sea of Cortez, Baja California Sur, Mexico

This property is a beautifully converted colonial mansion, located on the main square of Loreto. The building, pained a dusky pink, is most striking, and the walls within are also awash with the warm ochres of the Mexican palette. The air-conditioned guest rooms (go for a suite, they are large and airy and worth the extra), each named after a flower, are furnished with hand-crafted dark wood furniture and a sprinkling of antiques, which also embellish the nooks, crannies and stairways of the unreconstructed house.

Also in tune with the colonial style is the attractive ornamental courtyard, featuring exotic plants and stone fountains. Don’t miss the rooftop garden terrace, where you’ll find the restaurant where you can enjoy breakfast, and a stunning glass-bottomed swimming pool.

Day 4 - Loreto
At leisure in Loreto, blue-whale watching (late Jan-early April).

Loreto is a lovely colonial town and port on a gorgeous stretch of the Gulf of California coast. It was the hub for the Spanish mission effort and the first capital of California (which then extended from Cabo to Oregon) until a hurricane in 1829 destroyed much of it and the capital was moved to La Paz, although Loreto retains some graceful Spanish-style buildings. A splendid paved promenade (malecón), guarded and shaded by palms, graces the shoreline and looks out over attractive hilly islands and headlands: at one end is a marshy cape great for bird-spotting.

Loreto Bay is also one of the best places to view the blue whale, at up to 30m long the largest animal ever known to have existed with an elegant slim shape and a blow-hole which spouts water straight up into the air. We’ve included a full day out at sea to hopefully locate and observe these magnificent creatures. Please note trips require a minimum of 4 participants and operate from late Jan to early April.

If visiting outside of the whale season (or if you just don’t fancy a day on the ocean), you can easily spend your time here just enjoying the laid-back ambiance of the town, visiting the restored mission with its gilded altar and museum on the pretty plaza and strolling along the malecón at sunrise or sunset, or taking a boat out to one of the lovely beaches nearby (the town beach has brownish sand and no facilities). There are also several companies selling adventure tours such as hikes, visits to missions (such as the spectacularly sited Jan Javier), canyoning, scuba-diving, fishing and kayaking.

This property is a beautifully converted colonial mansion, located on the main square of Loreto. The building, pained a dusky pink, is most striking, and the walls within are also awash with the warm ochres of the Mexican palette. The air-conditioned guest rooms (go for a suite, they are large and airy and worth the extra), each named after a flower, are furnished with hand-crafted dark wood furniture and a sprinkling of antiques, which also embellish the nooks, crannies and stairways of the unreconstructed house.

Also in tune with the colonial style is the attractive ornamental courtyard, featuring exotic plants and stone fountains. Don’t miss the rooftop garden terrace, where you’ll find the restaurant where you can enjoy breakfast, and a stunning glass-bottomed swimming pool.

Day 5 - San Ignacio, Mexico
Self-drive from Loreto to San Ignacio.

Heading out of Loreto across the coastal plain peppered with beautiful beaches, you pass through a region of dry, knobbly hills which support a smattering of drought-resistant plants as well as the ubiquitous cactus. The undulating road here is paved and in good condition. You might decide to stop off for a swim at El Requison Bay, just short of the town Buenaventura, and continue on to Mulegé which has a Jesuit mission dating back to 1703. One of Baja’s stunningly attractive oases, Mulegé has a view point over Santo Rosalia river which is lush and planted with citrus trees and date palms. The hilltop mission is worth a visit.

Further north is the port Santa Rosalia, built to export copper from the now exhausted mines (you can see abandoned mine paraphernalia scattered around) and now surviving on fishing. It has a central church constructed with the help of Eiffel (of Eiffel tower fame) and, unusually, houses built in French Caribbean style.

Approaching the Vizcaino Reserve, a scalding caldron of desert heat, you’ll be exposed to uncompromising desert all the way until suddenly you hit on San Ignacio, by contrast a lush green and shady place filled with date groves. The town hosts a clutch of Baja’s rare thatched colonial buildings, painted in pastel colours, bedecked with bougainvillea and sheltered by laurel trees. The striking mission here, completed by Dominicans in 1786, is probably the most ornate and interesting in Baja.

If you drive without stops it should take under 4 hours to cover the 275km distance but we are sure you will want to park up to enjoy some of the places of interest en route.

Day 6
Grey whale-watching (mid-Jan to mid-Apr)

Join an organised tour through other-worldly salt pans as you head to the lagoon on the Pacific side of the peninsula. There, you embark a motorised launch to traverse the lagoon with an eye out for the whales, which come here to breed. Trusting and curious, these massive, barnacle-encrusted creatures will approach the boats with their young and you can also observe them spy-hopping (breaking surface to rise out of the water as if standing). The shallows act as a nursery or training ground for the young so mothers and babies alike feel protected from the predators of the open seas, such as killer whales. The experience of witnessing such natural magnificence at close quarters is a privilege and not to be missed. Please note a minimum of 4 participants is needed for this excursion to operate.

Day 7
Day at leisure, optional visits to cave paintings and El Vizcaino Biosphere Reserve.

You might consider just hanging out in San Ignacio, an agreeable little town with a timeless ambiance. Founded by the Jesuits but on a site inhabited for millennia by indigenous tribes, it is surrounded by bleak mountains pitted with caves adorned with prehistoric paintings.  No one knows much about their authors, around which much has been constructed as myth and legend, but some of these works of art depict hunters over 2m tall. You’ll need a local guide to find the art. They are set within the at first sight rather grim Vizcaino desert, Latin America’s largest protected area which stretches from the Vizcaino Peninsula across to the Gulf of California (Sea of Cortez) and includes all the principal whale calving sites.

Close to town, the pretty green lagoon, dammed artificially to support the town’s agricultural economy – mostly fruit plantations – has been richly planted with date trees making this a good place for spotting birds.

Day 8 - Loreto
Self-drive back to Loreto.

Follow the main road back to La Paz. You’ll get a different perspective on the scenery driving in the opposite direction! The 275km journey should take under 4 hours.

This property is a beautifully converted colonial mansion, located on the main square of Loreto. The building, pained a dusky pink, is most striking, and the walls within are also awash with the warm ochres of the Mexican palette. The air-conditioned guest rooms (go for a suite, they are large and airy and worth the extra), each named after a flower, are furnished with hand-crafted dark wood furniture and a sprinkling of antiques, which also embellish the nooks, crannies and stairways of the unreconstructed house.

Also in tune with the colonial style is the attractive ornamental courtyard, featuring exotic plants and stone fountains. Don’t miss the rooftop garden terrace, where you’ll find the restaurant where you can enjoy breakfast, and a stunning glass-bottomed swimming pool.

Day 9 - La Paz, Mexico
Self-drive to La Paz.

Return to La Paz in your rental car. La Paz is an easy-going port and very pleasant base from which to indulge in outdoor adventure activities such as diving, fishing or sea-kayaking. The town has a university and a lively cultural scene as well. The capital of Baja California, it’s home to a quarter of a million inhabitants but still has a small town feel, and maintains a Mexican ambiance somewhat lacking in the other more US-influenced towns. Your hotel is well located so you should have time to explore the town and maybe take an evening stroll along the picturesque seaside promenade – although the town is on the eastern side of the peninsula the coastline wiggles incongruously here allowing for spectacular displays of purple and tangerine as the sun sets over the sea. There is a palm-fringed waterfront promenade (malecón) and there are some lovely unspoilt beaches not far away.

There’s around 360km of driving today, continuing past the airport to your hotel for the next 3 nights.

This intimate and most attractive ochre-washed property is situated on the La Paz’s coastal promenade, the Malecón, close to the centre of the capital of Baja California. Refurbished and refreshed in 2016, it’s one of the most genuinely Mexican properties in town: the sofa-crammed lounge and handful of guest rooms and suites are tastefully furnished with Mexican artwork and rich locally woven textiles.  Each guest room has an individual iconic feature, such as antique wooden furniture, Mexican pottery, a marbled wall or a palm tree growing through the ceiling.

The hotel’s second floor restaurant, overlooking the promenade, has unparalleled views over the ocean. Potted plants are liberally scattered over the grounds of property which features a stone fountain while other facilities include a sun deck with loungers and a patio where breakfast is served.

Day 10
Day at leisure to enjoy beach club.

You have a couple of days based in La Paz, with your car at your disposal. Having looked round the centre you may wish to explore a bit further afield. If relaxation is your aim, just a short taxi ride from La Paz is the Costa Baja Resort and Spa, where for a small fee you can enjoy the Beach Club, with cool bars, loungers, scatter cushions to relax on and a lovely infinity pool. Also within the complex is a marina surrounded by a good selection of restaurants, some with outdoor seating next to the bobbing boats. A golf club is adjacent too.

This intimate and most attractive ochre-washed property is situated on the La Paz’s coastal promenade, the Malecón, close to the centre of the capital of Baja California. Refurbished and refreshed in 2016, it’s one of the most genuinely Mexican properties in town: the sofa-crammed lounge and handful of guest rooms and suites are tastefully furnished with Mexican artwork and rich locally woven textiles.  Each guest room has an individual iconic feature, such as antique wooden furniture, Mexican pottery, a marbled wall or a palm tree growing through the ceiling.

The hotel’s second floor restaurant, overlooking the promenade, has unparalleled views over the ocean. Potted plants are liberally scattered over the grounds of property which features a stone fountain while other facilities include a sun deck with loungers and a patio where breakfast is served.

Day 11
Optional kayaking or visit to Todos Santos.

If you fancy doing something on the water – and it is tempting – an optional guided kayaking trip from La Paz explores the pristine area along the coast arriving at tranquil, turquoise blue waters of Balandra Bay on a prominent headland. Here there are no less than seven powdery white sand beaches. This beautiful setting is framed by deep red volcanic mountains. In the afternoon, continue paddling, stopping several times to snorkel. One stop is in a small cave where only kayaks can beach, where you can swim between huge volcanic boulders. Other kayaking trips can be arranged in town or from the hotel.

Alternatively you might go for a cultural experience and visit the quaint town Todos Santos, an hour’s drive away on the Pacific side of the peninsula. Beloved of bohemian US ex-pats of an arty persuasion, it’s a quiet place; the hordes of tourists who visit Cabo don’t make it here.  Wander round the galleries and craft shops, admire the baroque colonial architecture, lunch in one of a plethora of restaurants or wander down the sandy lane towards the ocean to view a glorious deserted surf beach.

This intimate and most attractive ochre-washed property is situated on the La Paz’s coastal promenade, the Malecón, close to the centre of the capital of Baja California. Refurbished and refreshed in 2016, it’s one of the most genuinely Mexican properties in town: the sofa-crammed lounge and handful of guest rooms and suites are tastefully furnished with Mexican artwork and rich locally woven textiles.  Each guest room has an individual iconic feature, such as antique wooden furniture, Mexican pottery, a marbled wall or a palm tree growing through the ceiling.

The hotel’s second floor restaurant, overlooking the promenade, has unparalleled views over the ocean. Potted plants are liberally scattered over the grounds of property which features a stone fountain while other facilities include a sun deck with loungers and a patio where breakfast is served.

Day 12
Drop off car at La Paz airport

Drop off your car at La Paz airport (flight not included). It’s a 15km drive to the airport from the centre of city.

Self-drive Mexico: Discover Baja California and the Sea of Cortez full itinerary
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Overview
Places Visited

The places you’ll stay and explore on this tour. Here’s a closer look at each one and what makes it worth the trip.

Mexico City is one of the world’s great capital cities, where ancient civilisations, colonial heritage and contemporary culture converge. Built on the foundations of the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlán, this vast metropolis offers everything from historic architecture and world-class museums to vibrant neighbourhoods and exceptional gastronomy.

Mexico City

Baja California Mexico – desert running straight into the sea. The peninsula stretches 1,300km south from the US border, separated from mainland Mexico by the Sea of Cortés, all rugged canyons, remote coastline and near-constant sunshine. Baja California holidays include parched desert on one side and turquoise water thick with marine life.

Baja California
Overview
Highlights

The skeletal Baja Peninsula, separated from the Mexican mainland by the narrow Gulf of California (Sea of Cortez) consists of the bare bones of crinkled mountains sliced through by parched canyons. This pitiless landscape, infused with an ethereal beauty, has always been a challenge to human settlement, from the indian hunters of millennia ago to the Jesuit colonists of the Spanish era. Farmers still scratch a living in miniscule oases and fishermen scour the seas off the bays and cliffs of the craggy coast.

In modern times development has centred on the southern coast which attracts millions of visitors every year lured by the luxury resorts of Cabo. However, away from the fleshpots, you can explore the real Baja, its exquisite, other-worldly interior, its quiet colonial towns, the uninhabited flour-white beaches and aquamarine bays. What better way than in by self-drive car-hire: travel the trans-peninsula Highway 1, completed only in 1973, and discover along it or within easy reach the lesser-known delights of Baja. You’ll find prehistoric cave paintings, abandoned missions and national parks – home to a surprisingly robust wildlife. Stop off at the slow-paced towns San Ignacio and Loreto, both recalling the style and elegance of the Spanish era and from where, January to April, you can view whales and dolphins up close.

Chris Rendell-Dunn travel expert

Chris Rendell-Dunn

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All of our experts have lived or travelled extensively in Latin America, so you will receive unrivalled advice based on unique personal experiences.

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What you need to know
Essentials

The practical detail for this tour, all in one place. Transport, accommodation, what’s included and what to pack, so you know exactly what to expect before you go.

Mexico information
What's included in the price
Services of our team of experts in our London office
Services of Journey Latin America local representatives and guides
Land and air transport as described in the itinerary
Self-drive car hire for 10 days
Accommodation as specified
Meals as specified
Excursions as specified, including entrance fees
Taxes and compulsory charges
Included Excursions
Full-day guided tour of Mexico City and Teotihuacan pyramids
Grey whale-watching from San Ignacio (in season)
Blue whale-watching from Loreto (in season)
What's not included in the price
Tips and gratuities
Meals other than specified
International flights
Optional excursions
Fuel for hire car
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Rosie embarked on a year-long backpacking trip across Latin America. She is excited to share her knowledge and experiences with others.

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Finn discovered his passion for travel on an extensive 18-month trip to Latin America, experiencing the vibrant Carnaval in Rio, the end-of-the-world city of Ushuaia, trekking the Andes and volunteering on the Galápagos Islands.

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What to do

Things to do

We proudly offer the widest range of activities, excursions and one-of-a-kind experiences across all our destinations, tried and tested personally by our travel experts.

Todos Santos is a little town is about an hour’s drive from La Paz and 90 minutes from Cabo on the southern tip of the Baja California peninsula. It is situated in one of Baja’s rare oasis, and is surrounded by coconut palm groves with avocado, mango and papaya trees. The once isolated town has…

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Go on a sea-borne expedition to spot the shy blue whale, the largest animal ever found on Earth.

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San Ignacio

Visit the pretty colonial lagoon-side town San Ignacio, set in a desert oasis, base for whale-watching.

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Encounter the gentle giant of the seas on a boat trip from the coast of southern Belize offering the chance to swim with the world’s largest marine species.

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Mexico city

Take a stroll through the historic plazas and boulevards of Mexico’s cosmopolitan capital, discovering the city’s Aztec foundations.

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Where to stay

Accommodation

Browse our unrivalled portfolio of accommodation. Every option has been carefully chosen by our team of travel experts, so you can rest assured that you will relax in utter comfort

A good value mid-range hotel with plenty of Mexican character, one block from Mexico City’s main plaza and its magnificent cathedral.

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Posada de las Flores is a delightful, authentic colonial-style hotel right in the centre of unspoilt Loreto

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Posada del la Plores is a small hotel defined by authentic Mexican style and artifacts, right on the seafront in La Paz, Baja California. 

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The Pantanal wetlands cover an area almost the size of the British Isles and offers better wildlife opportunities than the Amazon. Writer and photographer Alex Bellos discovers them.

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Small, breathtakingly beautiful Costa Rica is a treasure trove for the nature lover. Trees laden with orchids are home to quetzals and hummingbirds, while the Caribbean shore hosts volcanic beaches and palm-sheltered coves.

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Level definitions

Essential
What it means

Stay in comfortable, well-located hotels chosen to keep you close to the action. These are reliable, practical places with everything you need for a good night’s sleep, sometimes a smaller or family-run find, sometimes a larger, more functional hotel. It’s a straightforward style of stay that keeps costs down and leaves more of your budget for the experiences themselves.

Premium
What it means

Return each evening to well-appointed hotels chosen for their comfort and setting. Rooms are spacious and properly equipped, with all the mod cons you’d expect, and facilities to include a restaurant, a bar or lounge, and often a pool or spa to unwind in. It’s an easy, comfortable style of travel, with somewhere relaxed to look forward to each day.

Essential
What it means

Settle into stylish hotels picked for their character, setting and service. That might be a luxurious city hotel like the Loi Suites in Buenos Aires, or somewhere with a setting you won’t forget, a former estancia on the Patagonian steppe or a lodge at the foot of Machu Picchu. This is our most memorable style, where the hotel becomes part of the journey itself.

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