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Undiscovered El Salvador and Nicaragua

Trips to Tailor

19 days from £4,700

per person
Based on two people sharing & excluding flights
Nicaragua and El Salvador are off the beaten track, with fairly rudimentary infrastructure but as such they offer a rewarding experience akin to what travellers enjoyed in other parts of the continent decades ago.
What to expect
Itinerary

Explore the tour day by day, from the highlights to the quieter moments in between. Here’s how each day unfolds and what to expect along the way.

Day 1 - San Salvador
Arrive in San Salvador and transfer to your hotel.

You will be met at the airport by our local representative who will accompany you on the one-hour drive to your hotel in the capital’s quiet, upmarket Zona Rosa district.

San Salvador,EL SALVADOR
Day 2
El Boqueron Volcano & San Salvador city tour

Drive up the steep mountain road which flanks San Salvador towards the peak of El Boquerón volcano for expansive views over the capital and surrounding countryside. Volcanic activity here in the past wreaked havoc on the city, but now you can take a short walk to the rim of the extinct volcanic crater, where a walkway offers impressive vistas into the crater, which is smothered in closely-packed foliage.

Established by the Spanish in 1525, San Salvador is a dynamic, cosmopolitan capital with a mélange of architectural styles reflecting its chequered history. The Plaza Gerardo Barrios forms the focal point of your walking tour, flanked by the National Palace, the striking National Library, and the Metropolitan Cathedral, which houses the tomb of Archbishop Óscar Romero who was assassinated in 1980 while celebrating Mass.

Metropolitan Cathedral, El Salvador
Day 3 - Ataco
Transfer to Ataco on the Ruta de las Flores.
Continue by private transfer (3 hours) to the colonial town of Ataco. Located in the heart of El Salvador’s Ruta de las Flores (Route of the Flowers), Ataco is an attractive cobbled town adorned with brightly coloured murals. With its wide choice of cafés and restaurants, together with handicraft and artisanal markets, it’s a lovely place to explore on foot.
A colourful mural in Concepcion de Ataco, El Salvador
Casa Degraciela

In a colonial house that is over 200 years old, Casa Degraciela is a small but atmospheric hotel, evoking its 19th century roots with antiques, wooden rocking chairs, a horse-drawn cart and stained glass windows. The hotel retains many original features of brick and tile, wooden furniture beloved of the Spanish colonial era, and a fountain in the garden.

The property is just off the main square of Concepción de Ataco, convenient for this pleasant colonial El Salvador town’s craft shops, restaurants and market, but nevertheless offering guests a peaceful ambience.

The original owners’ private bedrooms are among the guest rooms with white adobe walls, stone features and colonial-style wooden furnishing. Standard rooms are compact while suites are more spacious with bath tubs, and the master suite has a balcony overlooking the garden.

The hotel has a pleasant terrace, library, restaurant with an extensive dinner menu and bar serving cocktails and tapas.

Day 4 - Ataco
Exploring the Ruta de las Flores & Coffee Tasting

Set off and explore the Ruta de las Flores, a 36‑kilometre winding mountain route linking Sonsonate to Ahuachapán and offering wonderful views at every turn. As the name suggests, you’ll pass fields of tropical flowers and nurseries that thrive in the cool, pleasant climate.

Steeped in cultural tradition, the Ruta de las Flores is worth visiting any day of the week, though its towns truly come alive at weekends. Your tour is flexible so you can make the most of the day and tailor it to your interests, whether that’s browsing craft markets, visiting historic churches (including one with a 16th‑century black statue of Christ), or joining the lively weekly food fair in Juayúa.

Rising from 250 to 2,365 metres above sea level, this fertile region produces some of the world’s finest coffee. You’ll have the chance to visit a coffee plantation, learning about cultivation, harvesting, and roasting before enjoying a fresh cup prepared using the traditional chorreador method, which strains the roasted coffee to bring out its most delicious aromas.

Ruta de Las Flores
Casa Degraciela

In a colonial house that is over 200 years old, Casa Degraciela is a small but atmospheric hotel, evoking its 19th century roots with antiques, wooden rocking chairs, a horse-drawn cart and stained glass windows. The hotel retains many original features of brick and tile, wooden furniture beloved of the Spanish colonial era, and a fountain in the garden.

The property is just off the main square of Concepción de Ataco, convenient for this pleasant colonial El Salvador town’s craft shops, restaurants and market, but nevertheless offering guests a peaceful ambience.

The original owners’ private bedrooms are among the guest rooms with white adobe walls, stone features and colonial-style wooden furnishing. Standard rooms are compact while suites are more spacious with bath tubs, and the master suite has a balcony overlooking the garden.

The hotel has a pleasant terrace, library, restaurant with an extensive dinner menu and bar serving cocktails and tapas.

Day 5 - Suchitoto
Transfer to Suchitoto via El Tazumal, Santa Ana & Joya de Ceren

Drive to the archaeological site of El Tazumal, El Salvador’s most significant ceremonial Mayan centre. Set in the heart of the small town of Chalchuapa, it’s a place where everyday life continues along the very streets once trodden by the Maya. Just outside the ruins stands a bust of Che Guevara, commemorating his visit in 1954.

Continue to Santa Ana, El Salvador’s second city, taking time to admire the National Theatre and the impressive Gothic cathedral that dominate the vibrant main square. From here, travel to the fascinating archaeological site of Joya de Cerén.

Drawing comparisons with Pompeii, the pre-Hispanic farming community of Joya de Cerén was buried in up to 20 feet of ash when the Laguna Caldera Volcano erupted in AD 600, and the incredibly well preserved remains offer an insight into the day to day lives of rural communities of the time: how they cultivated their crops, built their homes and cooked and stored their food. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993 and houses an excellent museum with multilingual information boards.

Joya De Ceren El Salvador
Hotel Los Amendros de San Lorenzo

The 200-year old building housing Hotel Los Amendros de San Lorenzo blends colonial features with stylish design, just one block from Suchitoto’s main square.

This former hacienda was lovingly renovated by the French-Salvadorian owners. From the classic colonial exterior, a grand wooden door leads to a cool tiled reception and shady, tropical courtyard, around which the individually decorated guestrooms are arranged.

Rooms are adorned with local artwork, antiques, colonial-style wooden furniture, high ceilings and original stonework, while the palatial suites are huge and impeccably decorated.

There’s a library, bar and free form stone pool in the rear garden. The highly-regarded restaurant serves French cuisine with local touches. The welcoming French owner also has an art gallery opposite the hotel, exhibiting the work of local artists.

Day 6
Walking tour of Suchitoto.

Suchitoto is a charming colonial town whose name in the native Nahuatl language means “place of birds and flowers” – and for good reason – vibrant flowers adorn every building and nearby Lake Suchitlán provides an important sanctuary for birdlife.

During El Salvador’s brutal civil war, Suchitoto was heavily affected. Fortunately, since the signing of the peace accords, extensive reconstruction has taken place, and today its cobblestone streets are a delight to wander.

On a leisurely 2–3-hour walking tour, you’ll explore the town’s principal attractions, including the striking white Santa Lucía Church, which dominates the main square. You’ll also discover Suchitoto’s rich cultural identity with visits to the Arte Para la Paz (Art for Peace) Museum and the Teatro Alejandro Cotto – named in honour of the filmmaker, writer, and poet who played a key role in shaping the town’s cultural life.

Hotel Los Amendros de San Lorenzo

The 200-year old building housing Hotel Los Amendros de San Lorenzo blends colonial features with stylish design, just one block from Suchitoto’s main square.

This former hacienda was lovingly renovated by the French-Salvadorian owners. From the classic colonial exterior, a grand wooden door leads to a cool tiled reception and shady, tropical courtyard, around which the individually decorated guestrooms are arranged.

Rooms are adorned with local artwork, antiques, colonial-style wooden furniture, high ceilings and original stonework, while the palatial suites are huge and impeccably decorated.

There’s a library, bar and free form stone pool in the rear garden. The highly-regarded restaurant serves French cuisine with local touches. The welcoming French owner also has an art gallery opposite the hotel, exhibiting the work of local artists.

Day 7 - Perkin
Transfer to Perquin.

Continue by private transfer (5 hours) to the historic town of Perquín, tucked away in the far north‑east of the country just a few kilometres from the Honduran border.

Perquín, a small town of only a few thousand residents, is best known for having served as the headquarters of the guerrilla movement during the civil war. Reminders of the conflict still remain, yet today it is a peaceful place with a pleasant climate, surrounded by low, forested mountains.

Perqin, El Salvador
Perkin Lenca

The simple Perkin Lenca consists of wooden cabins and bungalows which overlook the rolling green coffee plantations and verdant forests that dominate the area. You can relax on the peaceful porch overlooking the neighbouring mountain range, swing in a hammock or go for walks in the idyllic countryside all around.

Rooms are scattered along the slopes of a steep hill and have a typically rustic decorative style. As should be expected in this off-the-beaten-track region, standards are basic but all the essentials are provided.

There’s a good restaurant serving delicious traditional cuisine – prepared with ingredients grown on the hotel grounds – and fantastic coffee. The socially conscious owner also helps to run a local school using the hotel proceeds.

Day 8
Visit Perquin's Museo de la Revolución and the nearby town of El Mozote.

Perquín forms part of the country’s Ruta de la Paz (Peace Route), which also includes other settlements closely linked to the armed struggle.

You’ll visit the town’s Museo de la Revolución, proudly run by former guerrilla fighters and filled with memorabilia from the conflict. The museum also features moving displays describing how this region was particularly affected, as well as an account of the life and assassination of Archbishop Óscar Romero, the revolutionary priest and martyr.

You’ll then travel to the nearby town of El Mozote to see its poignant memorial dedicated to the victims of a horrific massacre that occurred at the height of the civil war.

Perkin Lenca

The simple Perkin Lenca consists of wooden cabins and bungalows which overlook the rolling green coffee plantations and verdant forests that dominate the area. You can relax on the peaceful porch overlooking the neighbouring mountain range, swing in a hammock or go for walks in the idyllic countryside all around.

Rooms are scattered along the slopes of a steep hill and have a typically rustic decorative style. As should be expected in this off-the-beaten-track region, standards are basic but all the essentials are provided.

There’s a good restaurant serving delicious traditional cuisine – prepared with ingredients grown on the hotel grounds – and fantastic coffee. The socially conscious owner also helps to run a local school using the hotel proceeds.

Day 9 - La Union
Transfer to La Union on the Gulf of Fonseca.

Continue by private transfer (3 hours) to La Unión, El Salvador’s principal port and an important regional trading hub. The city itself is somewhat ramshackle, but it enjoys a beautiful setting at the foot of the Conchagua Volcano and overlooking the Gulf of Fonseca.

Accommodation options in La Unión are limited, but your hotel – located a few kilometres outside the city with views across the Gulf of Fonseca – provides a more than adequate base for one night.

In the evening, head to Conchagua, a small town perched on the slopes of the volcano that shares its name. It’s a pretty place with a flower‑filled plaza centred around one of the oldest churches in the country. Here, you’ll learn how to make El Salvador’s most popular traditional dish, the humble pupusa, a thick corn pancake typically filled with cheese, refried beans, or meat.

El Salvador;
Day 10 - Leon
Boat across the Gulf of Fonseca to Nicaragua; continue by road to Leon.

Board a boat in the morning in La Unión for the 2½‑hour crossing of the Gulf of Fonseca to Potosí in Nicaragua. This is certainly the more adventurous way to travel between the two countries, as the ride can be a little rough and you may get splashed.

(It is possible to travel overland via Honduras, but UK passport‑holders require a visa to transit Honduras.)

The Salvadoran and Honduran coastlines are dotted with small islands and backed by steep, verdant mountains. Along the way, you’ll see fishermen hauling in their catch, seabirds skimming the water’s surface, and, if you’re lucky, dolphins leaping and playing alongside the boat.

Once in Potosí, it’s a three‑hour drive to León, Nicaragua’s former capital, a city that still embodies much of the country’s ecclesiastical and intellectual heritage.

Gulf of Fonseca

Hotel El Convento, an atmospheric former convent enjoys a prime location just a stone’s throw from the main square and cathedral. It retains a sense of the city’s colonial past without being stuffy, mixing a carefully chosen collection of antiques with more modern furnishings and works of art.

Room décor is rustic yet contemporary with white or exposed brick walls, wood-beamed ceilings and cool terracotta tiled floors. Many original architectural features of the 17th century building have been retained and the simple white and jade colour scheme allows them to shine.

Landscaped gardens lie within the confines of the large courtyard (once the convent’s cloister), with grand palm trees rising high above the tiled roofs and shady colonnaded walkways. There is a small pool overlooked by tropical greenery, and a pleasant restaurant and bar area.

Day 11 - Leon
Walking tour of Leon.

León is Nicaragua’s most ebullient city – energised by its university and a thriving intellectual and cultural life. It boasts a fascinating history: the original settlement at the foot of the Momotombo Volcano was founded in 1524 and later destroyed by an earthquake in 1609.

A walking tour reveals the tempestuous history of the modern-day city, a colonial masterpiece rivalled only by Granada, with its trademark adobe façades, narrow streets, and elegant squares dominated by a number of grandiose churches. These include the imposing Cathedral – the largest in the Americas – which took over 100 years to complete.

León also has a long history of alliance with revolutionary causes, and you’ll still see remnants of Sandinista murals painted during the revolt against the Somoza regime in the 1970s.

Hotel El Convento, an atmospheric former convent enjoys a prime location just a stone’s throw from the main square and cathedral. It retains a sense of the city’s colonial past without being stuffy, mixing a carefully chosen collection of antiques with more modern furnishings and works of art.

Room décor is rustic yet contemporary with white or exposed brick walls, wood-beamed ceilings and cool terracotta tiled floors. Many original architectural features of the 17th century building have been retained and the simple white and jade colour scheme allows them to shine.

Landscaped gardens lie within the confines of the large courtyard (once the convent’s cloister), with grand palm trees rising high above the tiled roofs and shady colonnaded walkways. There is a small pool overlooked by tropical greenery, and a pleasant restaurant and bar area.

Day 12 - Ometepe
Transfer to San Jorge port; ferry to Ometepe Island.

Continue by private transfer (4 hours) across the country to the port of San Jorge on the western shore of Lake Nicaragua. Here, you’ll board a ferry for the one‑hour crossing to Ometepe Island.

The relaxed, tranquil island rises majestically from Lake Nicaragua, dominated by its twin conical volcanoes, Concepción and Maderas. Thanks to its fertile volcanic soil, Ometepe is dotted with citrus, banana, watermelon, and avocado plantations, while its lush jungle vegetation provides a habitat for monkeys and a rich variety of bird species.

Life here has remained largely unchanged for decades, if not centuries, despite the upheavals caused by revolution and civil war elsewhere. And the fact that the island can only be reached by boat has helped maintain its enduring sense of remoteness.

Beach at Hotel Villa Paraiso

In splendid isolation in the middle of Lake Nicaragua, the dramatic forested island of Ometepe is dominated by the peaks of two volcanoes and fringed by beautiful white-sand beaches.

Accommodation on the island is simple and in our opinion the friendly, family-owned Villa Paraíso is still among the most inviting of Ometepe’s guesthouses. The property enjoys a secluded spot on Playa Santo Domingo, where its cosy cabins sit within a landscaped garden.

Most have private bathrooms with hot water; some also have a kitchen. All come with air-conditioning and a front porch with hammocks and chairs to relax in. There’s also a thatched bar and restaurant serving traditional Nicaraguan fare. A variety of activities can be arranged including volcano hikes, trips to the petroglyphs and bike rental.

Day 13
Ometepe Island tour

Your tour begins in the Charco Verde nature reserve where palm trees and densely packed, fruit-bearing tropical vegetation line the lakeshore, which is indented with small volcanic beaches. The reserve is enlivened by the presence of over 200 howler monkeys, as well as the calls of migratory and indigenous birds. A calm lagoon, dotted with mangroves and fallen trees, creates a fairy-tale atmosphere; the area is famous for its mythology.

Continue to the El Ceibo Pre-Columbian Museum, where archaeological displays showcase ancient artefacts found on the island, including intricate carvings of animals and people, alongside a numismatic collection of more than 3,000 pieces. Your day concludes with a refreshing swim in the crystal-clear waters of Ojo de Agua, a forest-fringed natural swimming pool.

San Ramón Waterfall
Beach at Hotel Villa Paraiso

In splendid isolation in the middle of Lake Nicaragua, the dramatic forested island of Ometepe is dominated by the peaks of two volcanoes and fringed by beautiful white-sand beaches.

Accommodation on the island is simple and in our opinion the friendly, family-owned Villa Paraíso is still among the most inviting of Ometepe’s guesthouses. The property enjoys a secluded spot on Playa Santo Domingo, where its cosy cabins sit within a landscaped garden.

Most have private bathrooms with hot water; some also have a kitchen. All come with air-conditioning and a front porch with hammocks and chairs to relax in. There’s also a thatched bar and restaurant serving traditional Nicaraguan fare. A variety of activities can be arranged including volcano hikes, trips to the petroglyphs and bike rental.

Day 14
At leisure on Ometepe Island - optional hikes and cycle rides available.

The two volcanoes that dominate Ometepe Island – Concepción (1,610m) and Maderas (1,394m) – offer excellent, albeit challenging, hiking opportunities. Reaching the summit and returning typically takes a full day, and on clear days you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of the Island, Lake Nicaragua, and beyond.

Peaceful and unhurried, Ometepe Island also lends itself beautifully to cycling. With little vehicular traffic, you can pedal through small villages, stopping at natural swimming holes as you explore the island on two wheels.

Or simply relax at your hotel – whether swaying in a hammock or unwinding on the lakeside beach – the choice is yours.

Beach at Hotel Villa Paraiso

In splendid isolation in the middle of Lake Nicaragua, the dramatic forested island of Ometepe is dominated by the peaks of two volcanoes and fringed by beautiful white-sand beaches.

Accommodation on the island is simple and in our opinion the friendly, family-owned Villa Paraíso is still among the most inviting of Ometepe’s guesthouses. The property enjoys a secluded spot on Playa Santo Domingo, where its cosy cabins sit within a landscaped garden.

Most have private bathrooms with hot water; some also have a kitchen. All come with air-conditioning and a front porch with hammocks and chairs to relax in. There’s also a thatched bar and restaurant serving traditional Nicaraguan fare. A variety of activities can be arranged including volcano hikes, trips to the petroglyphs and bike rental.

Day 15 - Granada
Return to San Jorge port by ferry; continue by road to the colonial city of Granada.

Return to the port of San Jorge by ferry and continue by private transfer (2 hours) to Granada. Founded in 1524, Granada lies at the foot of the Mombacho Volcano and is one of the oldest cities in the New World.

At its height, the city grew wealthy through the gold trade and was repeatedly plundered by pirates, and even razed by the American mercenary William Walker in the mid‑19th century. Despite this turbulent past, the city has been beautifully restored and its colourful colonial houses and cobbled streets, many of which lead down to the shores of Lake Nicaragua, are a delight to explore.

Pool at Hotel Patio Del Malinche

The charmingly pretty Hotel Patio del Malinche in a restored colonial building is just two blocks from Granada’s central park. It’s a popular and much-loved place where you receive a warm welcome from the Spanish owners, who will bend over backwards to help you.

The hotel offers a tranquil stay in what can be a busy city, with plenty of space to relax in the public areas within the adobe walls of the property. The guestrooms are set hacienda-style around two small courtyards, one with a small pool.

Décor is stylishly minimalist and in keeping with the hotel’s architectural style: wood ceilings, terracotta floors and natural wooden doors. Rooms on the second floor have views of Mombacho Volcano, towering over the city’s colonial skyline. Breakfast can be taken either inside in the restaurant or al fresco overlooking the pool area, and there’s a bar serving cocktails.

Day 16
Granada city tour, boat trip on Lake Nicaragua & Masaya volcano at night.

Take a guided tour of Granada, visiting its colonial churches, strolling down narrow streets, and passing graceful historic houses. Many of the city’s highlights are located around the main square, including the beautiful baroque La Merced Church, the Casa de los Tres Mundos – now a cultural centre for local musicians and dancers – and the 16th‑century San Francisco Convent.

Granada sits on the shores of Lake Nicaragua, the second‑largest body of freshwater in the Americas. The lake stretches before you like an inland sea, its silky silver surface breaking into white‑tipped waves when the wind picks up. Embark on a small launch for a relaxing boat ride through the sheltered waters around the peaceful Isletas – hundreds of tiny, bright‑green, forested islands created by eruptions from the Mombacho Volcano that towers above the lake. Depending on the weather and time of day, you may spot abundant birdlife. Small fishing communities live among the islands, and a few host impressive weekend retreats owned by wealthy Nicaraguans.

At sunset you’ll head to Masaya Volcano, a short distance from Granada, where visitors can peer into the volcano’s fiery crater to witness its red and glowing lava.

Pool at Hotel Patio Del Malinche

The charmingly pretty Hotel Patio del Malinche in a restored colonial building is just two blocks from Granada’s central park. It’s a popular and much-loved place where you receive a warm welcome from the Spanish owners, who will bend over backwards to help you.

The hotel offers a tranquil stay in what can be a busy city, with plenty of space to relax in the public areas within the adobe walls of the property. The guestrooms are set hacienda-style around two small courtyards, one with a small pool.

Décor is stylishly minimalist and in keeping with the hotel’s architectural style: wood ceilings, terracotta floors and natural wooden doors. Rooms on the second floor have views of Mombacho Volcano, towering over the city’s colonial skyline. Breakfast can be taken either inside in the restaurant or al fresco overlooking the pool area, and there’s a bar serving cocktails.

Day 17 - El Castillo
Transfer to San Carlos; travel by boat along Rio San Juan to El Castillo.

Continue by private transfer (5 hours) to San Carlos on the south-eastern shores of Lake Nicaragua. The liveliest part of this quiet and somewhat ramshackle town is down by the pier: ferries and private launches jostle for space with fishing boats.

The boat journey to El Castillo takes about 1½ hours. Leaving San Carlos, the riverbanks are initially lined with maize fields and grazing cattle, punctuated by small jetties and rural homes. As you travel further downstream, the vegetation gradually gives way to dense tropical forest. There’s plenty of wildlife too: snowy ibis perch on overhanging branches and you may spot monkeys swinging through the taller trees and caiman basking on bare logs.

Rounding a bend, you’re greeted by a spectacular sight – on a rare hilltop, a vast stone-built Spanish fortress looms above white-water rapids and the squat, stilted houses of the quirky little port of El Castillo.

In the evening, set out by boat in search of caimans accompanied by a specialist guide. As you glide through the darkness, your journey orchestrated by the nocturnal sounds of the rainforest, the guide will use a spotlight to reflect the beady red eyes of caimans as they rest along the water’s edge.
Luna Del Rio San Juan

Riverside El Castillo is certainly a quirky little place, with its jungle-fringed wooden houses shading vehicle-free lanes and alleys all loomed over by the vast hilltop Spanish fort.   You almost have the impression that you are in a Latin American magical realism novel and this feeling is only enhanced if you stay at the Luna del Rio.

This delightful small wooden guesthouse is at the quieter end of town. Perched right on the wide Rio San Juan’s bank, it is managed by its friendly Spanish owner, Margarita, and her husband Miguel. There are just five small rooms with (occasional) hot water and air-conditioning. Two of the rooms have balconies with comfy chairs overlooking the rapids on the river – stay in one of those if you can.

Downstairs is a small bar and you take (an excellent) breakfast on a veranda right at the water’s edge: watch the birds dipping and weaving or villagers fishing according to centuries-old practices. Other meals can be taken in restaurants around town; Margarita will take your order and you turn up there at the pre-agreed time. In spite of the opening of a new bridge crossing the river to Costa Rica, El Castillo is still remote:  carry a torch for use in a power cut.

Day 18
Hike in Indo Maíz Biosphere Reserve & tour of El Castillo fortress.

Just 3km downstream from El Castillo lies the Indio‑Maíz Biosphere Reserve, an area dedicated to the preservation and study of its remarkable biological diversity. Set off with your guide along the 2km Bartola Trail, a well‑defined path that winds through forest rich with towering trees, oversized tropical plants with broad waxy leaves, and ferns that shelter tiny poison‑dart frogs no larger than a fingernail. With luck, you may spot a family of monkeys observing you from the safety of a high branch, or find a marching column of leaf‑cutter ants crossing your path.

El Castillo fortress, dates back to 1673 and was constructed by the Spanish to protect the affluent trading city of Granada from what they considered to be European pirates. Spend the afternoon exploring this formidable fortress with your guide who will narrate its extraordinary history, which included an assault by a youthful naval officer named Horatio Nelson. The expanisve views from the top, over uninterrupted rainforest are as impressive as the monumental stone walls and cannons themselves.

Luna Del Rio San Juan

Riverside El Castillo is certainly a quirky little place, with its jungle-fringed wooden houses shading vehicle-free lanes and alleys all loomed over by the vast hilltop Spanish fort.   You almost have the impression that you are in a Latin American magical realism novel and this feeling is only enhanced if you stay at the Luna del Rio.

This delightful small wooden guesthouse is at the quieter end of town. Perched right on the wide Rio San Juan’s bank, it is managed by its friendly Spanish owner, Margarita, and her husband Miguel. There are just five small rooms with (occasional) hot water and air-conditioning. Two of the rooms have balconies with comfy chairs overlooking the rapids on the river – stay in one of those if you can.

Downstairs is a small bar and you take (an excellent) breakfast on a veranda right at the water’s edge: watch the birds dipping and weaving or villagers fishing according to centuries-old practices. Other meals can be taken in restaurants around town; Margarita will take your order and you turn up there at the pre-agreed time. In spite of the opening of a new bridge crossing the river to Costa Rica, El Castillo is still remote:  carry a torch for use in a power cut.

Day 19 - Granada
Return to Granada for your final night

The return journey upriver to San Carlos takes 1½ hours, and from there it’s a further 5 hours by road back to Granada for your final night in Nicaragua.

Sunset in Granada
Pool at Hotel Patio Del Malinche

The charmingly pretty Hotel Patio del Malinche in a restored colonial building is just two blocks from Granada’s central park. It’s a popular and much-loved place where you receive a warm welcome from the Spanish owners, who will bend over backwards to help you.

The hotel offers a tranquil stay in what can be a busy city, with plenty of space to relax in the public areas within the adobe walls of the property. The guestrooms are set hacienda-style around two small courtyards, one with a small pool.

Décor is stylishly minimalist and in keeping with the hotel’s architectural style: wood ceilings, terracotta floors and natural wooden doors. Rooms on the second floor have views of Mombacho Volcano, towering over the city’s colonial skyline. Breakfast can be taken either inside in the restaurant or al fresco overlooking the pool area, and there’s a bar serving cocktails.

Day 20 - Managua
Transfer to Managua airport for your international flight home.
Undiscovered El Salvador and Nicaragua full itinerary
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Overview
Places Visited

The places you’ll stay and explore on this tour. Here’s a closer look at each one and what makes it worth the trip.

Colonial heritage, artistic creativity and modern regeneration sit alongside reminders of a dramatic past in San Salvador, the dynamic capital of El Salvador. Framed by volcanoes and shaped by both natural disasters and civil conflict, a San Salvador El Salvador holiday offers a fascinating introduction to the country’s history, culture and contemporary identity.

San Salvador

The Ruta de las Flores winds through El Salvador’s principal coffee-growing region, linking a string of highland towns renowned for artisan traditions, gastronomy and mountain scenery. Connecting Ataco, Nahuizalco, Juayúa and Apaneca, it offers one of Central America’s most rewarding road trip experiences.

Ruta de las Flores

Cobbled streets, whitewashed churches and red-tiled rooftops give Suchitoto a distinctive charm. Suchitoto holidays focus on this colonial town, now one of El Salvador’s leading centres of arts and culture, just north of San Salvador and known as the “place of birds and flowers”.

Suchitoto

The Gulf of Fonseca in El Salvador combines mangrove-lined shores, volcanic hills and quiet islands with a slower pace of life. Beyond the coast, eastern El Salvador offers mountain communities, fascinating history and some of Central America’s finest birdwatching, making it one of the country’s most rewarding yet least-visited regions.

Gulf of Fonseca and Eastern El Salvador

León is Nicaragua’s intellectual and cultural capital – grand colonial architecture, revolutionary history and a thriving artistic community make it one of Central America’s most fascinating cities. It’s known for its red-tiled buildings, elegant plazas and the powerful role it’s played in Nicaragua’s political and cultural identity.

Leon

Ometepe is one of Central America’s most remarkable landscapes – two volcanic peaks rising dramatically from the waters of Lake Nicaragua to form the world’s largest freshwater island. Relaxed and tranquil, it offers a unique mix of natural beauty, rural life and outdoor adventure.

Ometepe Island

One of Central America’s most beautiful colonial cities is on the shores of Lake Nicaragua. Granada is one of the oldest cities in Central America, and it’s still one of our favourite places to send travellers in Nicaragua – colourful streets, cobbled squares and Mombacho Volcano watching over it all.

Granada

Pirates once sailed the Río San Juan in search of gold, and Horatio Nelson captured its fortress before fever struck his forces. Flowing from Lake Nicaragua to the Caribbean through dense rainforest, the river passes the vast Indio Maíz Reserve. Our Río San Juan holidays explore its jungle waterways, riverside settlements and unspoilt natural surroundings.

Rio San Juan
Overview
Highlights

Both nations offer spectacular landscapes shaped by volcanoes, lakes, rivers, jungle, palm‑fringed beaches, and fertile hillsides draped in coffee bushes, along with a remarkable diversity of flora and fauna. Along the way, you’ll discover an unpretentious charm in their towns and cities and meet some of the most hospitable people in Latin America.

In recent decades, both countries have emerged from periods of political turbulence, and throughout your trip you’ll visit significant sites that help to understand their complex histories.

While neither country rivals the big hitters of Mexico, Peru, or Brazil, El Salvador and Nicaragua captivate in quieter ways. From their colonial towns, archaeological sites, and poignant memorials to their volcanic landscapes and scenic journeys by road and boat, both nations reward travellers who are willing to leave the headlines behind and explore.

Mary Anne Nelson travel expert

Mary Anne Nelson

Travel Expert

All of our experts have lived or travelled extensively in Latin America, so you will receive unrivalled advice based on unique personal experiences.

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What you need to know
Essentials

The practical detail for this tour, all in one place. Transport, accommodation, what’s included and what to pack, so you know exactly what to expect before you go.

Nicaragua information
El Salvador information
What's included in the price
Services of our team of experts in our London office
Services of Journey Latin America local representatives and guides
All land and air transport within Latin America
Accommodation as specified
Meals as specified
Excursions as specified, including entrance fees
Taxes and compulsory charges
Included Excursions
San Salvador: El Boqueron Volcano & San Salvador City Tour
Ataco: Ruta de las Flores & Coffee Tour
Ataco: Tazumal, Santa Ana & Joya de Ceren
Suchitito: Walking tour
Perquín: Museo de la Revolución & El Mozote
La Union: Pupusa dinner
Leon: Walking tour
Ometepe Island tour
Granada: city tour, boat trip on Lake Nicargua and Masaya volcano by night.
El Castillo: Caiman-spotting by night
El Castillo: Hike in Indo Maíz Biosphere Reserve
El Castillo: Guided tour of the fortress
What's not included in the price
Tips and gratuities
Meals other than specified
International flights to Latin America
Optional excursions
The latin america specialists

Why choose Journey Latin America for your holiday

We’ve been planning trips to Central and South America for over 45 years, longer than any other UK specialist. Every holiday is built around you by a Travel Expert who has been to the places they recommend, with support from your first enquiry to the day you fly home.

Expert advice for your holidays
Rosie Kay
Rosie Kay
Travel Expert

Rosie embarked on a year-long backpacking trip across Latin America. She is excited to share her knowledge and experiences with others.

Finn Clennett
Finn Clennett
Travel Expert

Finn discovered his passion for travel on an extensive 18-month trip to Latin America, experiencing the vibrant Carnaval in Rio, the end-of-the-world city of Ushuaia, trekking the Andes and volunteering on the Galápagos Islands.

Maggie Wilson
Maggie Wilson
Travel Expert

Maggie visited Latin America on her first backpacking trip when she was 19. Since then, she has taken every opportunity to travel, and has managed to explore a lot of the region in subsequent trips.

Gary Tombs
Gary Tombs
Product & Marketing

Gary discovered what he had been missing with his first foray into the wilds of Latin America. In his role as Product Manager, he combines this personal obsession with years of industry experience to help ensure that travellers will fall for the region every bit as much as he has.

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What to do

Things to do

We proudly offer the widest range of activities, excursions and one-of-a-kind experiences across all our destinations, tried and tested personally by our travel experts.

On a guided tour, explore the colonial heart of San Salvador and its revolutionary history.

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Visit charming colonial villages on a scenic voyage through the beautiful countryside of El Salvador’s coffee-growing region.

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Joya de Cerén

Discover the country’s most important Mayan site, buried for centuries under volcanic ash.

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Explore the cobbled streets of a charming colonial town before taking a boat tour of Lake Suchitlán, a haven for bird life.

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Explore the cobbled streets of a charming colonial town before taking a boat tour of Lake Suchitlán, a haven for bird life.

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Learn how to make pupusa, El Salvador’s signature dish, in a pretty colonial town, Conchagua.

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Where to stay

Accommodation

Browse our unrivalled portfolio of accommodation. Every option has been carefully chosen by our team of travel experts, so you can rest assured that you will relax in utter comfort

Luna del Rio is a quirky family-run guesthouse on the banks of Rio San Juan in El Castillo.

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Lovely colonial hotel with stylish, unfussy rooms arranged around pleasant courtyards in a convenient central location.

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Atmospheric 17th century convent transformed into an enchanting, art-filled hotel with landscaped gardens enclosed by a tranquil courtyard.

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Your edit for Latin American Inspiration

Papagaio

Our exciting range of articles on Latin America explore everything from iconic destinations and lesser-known cultural gems to delicious traditional recipes. You’ll also find exclusive travel tips, first-hand client reviews and the chance to get your personal questions answered by our travel experts.

View Extraordinary Inspiration

Featured Articles

To round the corner of a mountain and see the lost citadel of Machu Picchu unfold beneath you remains one of the most awe-inspiring experiences in Latin America, one of those dreamlike experiences that makes travelling here truly extraordinary.  

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The Pantanal wetlands cover an area almost the size of the British Isles and offers better wildlife opportunities than the Amazon. Writer and photographer Alex Bellos discovers them.

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Small, breathtakingly beautiful Costa Rica is a treasure trove for the nature lover. Trees laden with orchids are home to quetzals and hummingbirds, while the Caribbean shore hosts volcanic beaches and palm-sheltered coves.

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Level definitions

Essential
What it means

Stay in comfortable, well-located hotels chosen to keep you close to the action. These are reliable, practical places with everything you need for a good night’s sleep, sometimes a smaller or family-run find, sometimes a larger, more functional hotel. It’s a straightforward style of stay that keeps costs down and leaves more of your budget for the experiences themselves.

Premium
What it means

Return each evening to well-appointed hotels chosen for their comfort and setting. Rooms are spacious and properly equipped, with all the mod cons you’d expect, and facilities to include a restaurant, a bar or lounge, and often a pool or spa to unwind in. It’s an easy, comfortable style of travel, with somewhere relaxed to look forward to each day.

Essential
What it means

Settle into stylish hotels picked for their character, setting and service. That might be a luxurious city hotel like the Loi Suites in Buenos Aires, or somewhere with a setting you won’t forget, a former estancia on the Patagonian steppe or a lodge at the foot of Machu Picchu. This is our most memorable style, where the hotel becomes part of the journey itself.

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