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Off the beaten track Colombia: San Agustin and the Amazon

Trips to Tailor

12 days from £3,800

per person
Based on two people sharing & excluding flights
An innovative holiday to southern Colombia with the mysterious pre-Columbian statues of San Agustin, colonial city Popáyan and the remote communities of Amazonia. 
What to expect
Itinerary

Explore the tour day by day, from the highlights to the quieter moments in between. Here’s how each day unfolds and what to expect along the way.

Day 1 - Tatacoa Desert (Villa Vieja)
Arrive in Bogotá, connect to Neiva and continue by road to Villa Vieja.

The early morning flight to Neiva takes an hour. On arrival you’ll be met by our representative and driven to Villa Vieja (37km). This town epitomises Latin American Spanish colonial towns with a grid of quiet streets lined with one storey buildings and a large and leafy square. It prides itself on the remains of prehistoric creatures found in the vicinity and there is a small Paleontological Museum on the main square. The town, which sits on the banks of the Magdalena River, is a pleasant place to wander around with flowers, mango trees, a pretty colonial church and chapel, a few shops and bars.

It is a surprise to come across what appears to be a desert in the context of the Andean tropical rain and cloud forest. It’s a scorchingly hot region, with towering red rocks spliced through by dry canyons, and sun-bleached lava flows, dotted with cacti.  This ‘desert’ is a result of particular meteorological conditions; the area is not huge but big enough for you to feel overwhelmed by the extremity of the place.

It’s a short drive from Villa Vieja to the Tatacoa Desert. You’ll have a gentle sunset stroll through an area of bright rust red rock (Laberintos de Cusco), undulating with canyon-like rucks over which short walking trails have been devised. You may also be attracted by an optional visit to the Astronomy Observatory 6km from Villa Vieja as star-gazing in the unpolluted skies can be rewarding on a clear night. (July-October best).

Day 2 - San Agustin
Boat trip on the Magdalena River, continue by road to San Agustin.

The Magdalena River is one of Colombia’s great waterways, and for centuries boating along it was the only means of transport between isolated communities. The river slices northwards through the Andes for over 1,500km to the Caribbean Sea. It’s no surprise that it’s much loved, visited and respected by Colombians.

The Magdalena is navigable by small craft here, and a motorised canoe ride from Villa Vieja is a pleasant way to familiarise yourself with the river as here the waters are tranquil and the young river is not too wide. Along the banks are fields of crops such as sugar cane and pasture fringed by tropical vegetation. It’s a peaceful ride along one of the world’s greatest rivers more than a wildlife spotting expedition but you may spot iguanas, birds such as fish eagles, cormorants, orioles, garzas, swallows, and fishermen.

Continue by road to San Agustin (5 hours): the verdant landscape becoming increasingly hilly and scenic. San Agustin is a typical Spanish colonial style town, centred on a small leafy main square with a brick church and a bustling market on Sunday and Monday. Architecture follows the usual attractive colonial pattern of whitewashed facades, tiled roofs and overhanging wooden balconies.

Landscape near El Mirador at Canyon Rio Magdalena, San Agustin, Department Huila, Colombia
Monasterio de San Agustin

Monasterio San Agustin is a charming property epitomising rustic chic, embedded in the verdant countryside around San Agustin. Heavy tiled roofs, russet coloured walls, wooden balconies and rafters: it’s all very Spanish colonial style.

In harmony with this, the rooms and suites are furnished in traditional style with shuttered windows and polished wooden floors. They are decorated in earthy tones and have large windows allowing natural light to flood in. The domed roofs are a special feature in the guest rooms, and they all have panoramic balconies, private bathrooms and open brick fireplaces. Tables and chairs in the gardens allow you to enjoy the expansive views over the pretty rolling countryside which you can appreciate even better from the observation tower.

There is a coffee museum on the property and coffee is grown and processed on the land: you can watch this happening at harvest time.  Other facilities include a hot tub, a restaurant and bikes for rent.

Day 3
Explore San Agustín Archaeological Park.

With your expert guide, you’ll visit the archaeological park of San Agustín, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It has the largest group of religious monuments and megalithic statues in South America. Gods and mythical animals, represented in styles from abstract to realist, were created by a mysterious Andean culture between the 1st and 8th centuries. The site, which includes an excellent museum, is spread out over a wide area of green, forested hillsides, with impressive views. You will also visit the statues at El Tablón, as well as La Chaquira, a towering rock face onto which deities have been deeply carved. The views from here stretch over the Magdalena River and are truly spectacular.

(m)Landscape, San Agustin, Department Huila, Colombia
Monasterio de San Agustin

Monasterio San Agustin is a charming property epitomising rustic chic, embedded in the verdant countryside around San Agustin. Heavy tiled roofs, russet coloured walls, wooden balconies and rafters: it’s all very Spanish colonial style.

In harmony with this, the rooms and suites are furnished in traditional style with shuttered windows and polished wooden floors. They are decorated in earthy tones and have large windows allowing natural light to flood in. The domed roofs are a special feature in the guest rooms, and they all have panoramic balconies, private bathrooms and open brick fireplaces. Tables and chairs in the gardens allow you to enjoy the expansive views over the pretty rolling countryside which you can appreciate even better from the observation tower.

There is a coffee museum on the property and coffee is grown and processed on the land: you can watch this happening at harvest time.  Other facilities include a hot tub, a restaurant and bikes for rent.

Day 4
Optional excursions in San Agustín.

There are several optional activities you can do today, such as visiting the Magdalena Gorge, a coffee farm or a sugarcane plantation. For those with a particular interest in archaeology, we can arrange for you to visit Alto de los Idolos, a group of 23 statues, some as tall as 5m, and with arguably the most dramatic and scenic location of the lot. Nearby is another interesting site, Alto de las Piedras, which comprises a huddle of statues some of which still sport the colours they were originally painted in.

Monasterio de San Agustin

Monasterio San Agustin is a charming property epitomising rustic chic, embedded in the verdant countryside around San Agustin. Heavy tiled roofs, russet coloured walls, wooden balconies and rafters: it’s all very Spanish colonial style.

In harmony with this, the rooms and suites are furnished in traditional style with shuttered windows and polished wooden floors. They are decorated in earthy tones and have large windows allowing natural light to flood in. The domed roofs are a special feature in the guest rooms, and they all have panoramic balconies, private bathrooms and open brick fireplaces. Tables and chairs in the gardens allow you to enjoy the expansive views over the pretty rolling countryside which you can appreciate even better from the observation tower.

There is a coffee museum on the property and coffee is grown and processed on the land: you can watch this happening at harvest time.  Other facilities include a hot tub, a restaurant and bikes for rent.

Day 5 - Popayan
Drive to Popayán via Purace National Park

A beautiful and varied road climbs from San Agustin to Purace National Park (3,000m) which has as its focal point the domed volcano Purace, before descending to the city of Popayán, the cultural Mecca of the south.

Popayán is a stately colonial city where the centre, restored following earthquakes, manifests a pleasing uniformity of whitewash and Spanish baroque style. Grandiose two storeyed, Andalusian-style edifices line the cobbled streets connecting attractive squares. Historic institutions add to the town’s gravitas and the cathedral has been beautifully restored.

But it is not an overly serious town: the people are friendly and there is a love of song and dance. You’ll see many students hanging around (there are several universities, art and music colleges) which creates a youthful and vibrant feel. For many years during the troubles the city was off limits; now it is safe but still relatively undiscovered by tourists, a pleasant change from other very popular colonial cities in Latin America.

With an excellent location close to the exquisite main square in Popayán, Hotel  Plazuela occupies an attractive building with white stucco walls and  inner courtyards. It’s is a popular hotel choice among European visitors.

The 18th century property has a prestigious history: built by a notable Spanish colonist as his residence; over the years distinguished visitors lodged here.  At the end of the 19th century, it was the home of the parents of the Ecuadorian ex-president Carlos Arroyo del Rio. There have been changes over the years, not least as a result of earthquake damage but  restorations have maintained a rigorous attachment to its original shape and colonial style.

The hotel has two patios, the guest rooms at the front have windows onto the street with views over the street while others face the patios and are a bit quieter. The rooms themselves are furnished and decorated in contemporary-classic style. There’s a restaurant serving cuisine typical of the Cauca region of Colombia. 

Day 6
Visit Guambiano communities; walking tour of Popayán.

The Guambiano Indians still wear their colourful costume, a traditional, dark blue poncho and distinctive black hats. The kaleidoscopic colours of the traditional Tuesday market at Silvia will dazzle you but it’s definitely worth visiting the area on other days to observe the Guambianos going about the business of their daily lives in gorgeous landscapes of bright green craggy hills, lakes and waterfalls.

Return to Popayán in the afternoon for a walking tour around the city’s historic core. You will visit cloisters in former religious buildings now occupied by colleges, public offices and even prisons: you can’t go in on your own to look, the guide gains you entry which is a good reason for taking an official tour rather than exploring independently. There is also an option to climb Morro Tulcán for views over the city, and visit a famous biscuit factory, whose elderly owner is a local celebrity.

With an excellent location close to the exquisite main square in Popayán, Hotel  Plazuela occupies an attractive building with white stucco walls and  inner courtyards. It’s is a popular hotel choice among European visitors.

The 18th century property has a prestigious history: built by a notable Spanish colonist as his residence; over the years distinguished visitors lodged here.  At the end of the 19th century, it was the home of the parents of the Ecuadorian ex-president Carlos Arroyo del Rio. There have been changes over the years, not least as a result of earthquake damage but  restorations have maintained a rigorous attachment to its original shape and colonial style.

The hotel has two patios, the guest rooms at the front have windows onto the street with views over the street while others face the patios and are a bit quieter. The rooms themselves are furnished and decorated in contemporary-classic style. There’s a restaurant serving cuisine typical of the Cauca region of Colombia. 

Day 7 - Bogota
Fly to Bogotá.

Fly to Bogotá (1 hour). Founded in 1598, the effervescent capital sits on an upland Andean plateau. It’s a city of striking contrasts; skyscrapers and colonial single-storey houses, fast highways and cobbled lanes with chaotic traffic and the occasional mule cart. There are humble homes clinging to the mountain-sides and affluent tree-lined residential boulevards; crowded alleys and large parks; a cultured middle class jostling with workers and their families from all over Colombia. The night scene is lively with music clubs, bars and cafés spilling out on to the pavements. There is a cable car to the peak of Monserrate which glowers over the city and offers panoramic views.

If you’re keen to stay in La Candelaria, the atmospheric and vibrant colonial heart of Bogotá, then Hotel de la Opera is your best option. Set on a pedestrianised street next to the Teatro Colón and just one block from the Plaza Bolívar, its location is unrivalled. Several museums sit right on your doorstep, and the Museo del Oro (Gold Museum) is only a 15‑minute walk away.

The hotel’s 42 guestrooms are divided between two buildings – one dating back to colonial times and the other from the Republican era – and connected by an internal staircase. The high‑ceilinged rooms are spacious, decorated in warm yellow tones, and furnished with elegant Italian pieces, including large wooden armoires. The hotel prides itself on its wellness offering, featuring a spa with sauna, Jacuzzi, swimming pool (closed on Mondays), and a small gym.

Dining options include La Scala, located on the ground floor where breakfast is served, and El Mirador (open Friday to Sunday), which occupies a privileged rooftop spot with wonderful views over the domes of nearby cathedrals and churches. La Candelaria itself has a good selection of restaurants, but after 7pm the neighbourhood can feel quite quiet, especially on weekdays, so we always recommend taking a taxi.

Day 8 - Bogota
Walking tour of Bogotá and Gold Museum.

Your walking tour begins in the vast Plaza de Bolivar (the city’s main square), which features contemporary government buildings dwarfed by the imposing cathedral. Lying off the square is a grid of streets constituting the Spanish colonial part of the city known as ‘La Candelaria’. White and colour-washed buildings have tiled roofs and attractive overhanging balconies. Many now also host trendy coffee bars and restaurants, as well as many of the city’s museums.

Your tour also includes time at the Museo del Oro (gold museum), recognised as being one of the best in Latin America and a must even for those who don’t usually love museums. The collection is staggering in its opulence, there are more than 35,000 well displayed exhibits all fashioned with immense skill by pre-Columbian craftsmen.

If you’re keen to stay in La Candelaria, the atmospheric and vibrant colonial heart of Bogotá, then Hotel de la Opera is your best option. Set on a pedestrianised street next to the Teatro Colón and just one block from the Plaza Bolívar, its location is unrivalled. Several museums sit right on your doorstep, and the Museo del Oro (Gold Museum) is only a 15‑minute walk away.

The hotel’s 42 guestrooms are divided between two buildings – one dating back to colonial times and the other from the Republican era – and connected by an internal staircase. The high‑ceilinged rooms are spacious, decorated in warm yellow tones, and furnished with elegant Italian pieces, including large wooden armoires. The hotel prides itself on its wellness offering, featuring a spa with sauna, Jacuzzi, swimming pool (closed on Mondays), and a small gym.

Dining options include La Scala, located on the ground floor where breakfast is served, and El Mirador (open Friday to Sunday), which occupies a privileged rooftop spot with wonderful views over the domes of nearby cathedrals and churches. La Candelaria itself has a good selection of restaurants, but after 7pm the neighbourhood can feel quite quiet, especially on weekdays, so we always recommend taking a taxi.

Day 9 - Leticia
Fly to Leticia and continue by boat to your jungle lodge.

Fly to Leticia (2 hours), a port on the Amazon River and on the border with Brazil and Peru, offering the opportunity to visit three countries in one day.

Your lodge is 60km upriver from Leticia and the journey by public boat takes about 1½ hours. Shared with members of the local community the boats will make several stops en route offering glimpses into life in these tiny villages. It’s a scenic journey, and while there aren’t opportunities to stop and spot wildlife, you may see parakeets and egrets and if you are really lucky pink or grey dolphins.

Settle into your cabin at the lodge and then go on a guided walk through the surrounding rainforest with a local indigenous guide.

Sunset in the Amazon

This beautiful, well-run lodge offers spacious accommodation, great food and imaginative excursions. Owned by renowned artist and photographer Diego Samper, Calanoa Lodge has rustic cabins with river or jungle views.

Cabins can accommodate 6-8 people in separate bedrooms on different floors, but couples or smaller families may have cabins all to themselves. The cabins have comfortable beds with good quality linen, mosquito netting and private bathrooms. The sides of some cabins are open with just netting to protect from insects, providing an authentic jungle experience.

Food is very good and meals are taken in a communal dining room. There is electricity all day from solar panels. Excursions are led by local non-English speaking indigenous guides but we will arrange for an English-speaking guide to accompany you.

The charming, friendly indigenous community Mocagua, famed for its art, is just a 20-minute walk away.

Day 10
Visit Mocagua indigenous community and canoe ride

Visit Mocagua, an indigenous community a short walk from the lodge. You’ll see the homes of the indian inhabitants, the Baptist churches, the school and medical facilities, all modest one storey wooden buildings typical of the Amazon, connected by narrow paths – there are no motorised vehicles here. Fruit trees and blossoming plants enliven the tropical aspect.

Unique to Mocagua are the paintings of birds and animals on the houses. Visit basket and ceramic making workshops; there is no pressure to buy, the welcome is genuine. Some enterprising Mocaguan residents have opened restaurants in their homes and you’ll have a simple home-cooked lunch in one of them.

Return to the lodge by canoe, in time for dinner and a guided hike to discover the nocturnal activity in the forest.

This beautiful, well-run lodge offers spacious accommodation, great food and imaginative excursions. Owned by renowned artist and photographer Diego Samper, Calanoa Lodge has rustic cabins with river or jungle views.

Cabins can accommodate 6-8 people in separate bedrooms on different floors, but couples or smaller families may have cabins all to themselves. The cabins have comfortable beds with good quality linen, mosquito netting and private bathrooms. The sides of some cabins are open with just netting to protect from insects, providing an authentic jungle experience.

Food is very good and meals are taken in a communal dining room. There is electricity all day from solar panels. Excursions are led by local non-English speaking indigenous guides but we will arrange for an English-speaking guide to accompany you.

The charming, friendly indigenous community Mocagua, famed for its art, is just a 20-minute walk away.

Day 11
Visit Puerto Narino and Lake Tarapoto

Puerto Nariño is an attractive little port a short distance up river from your lodge. Founded in 1961 and populated by local indigenous Ticuna, Yagua and Cocana people, the place is famed for its eco-friendliness. It’s a very relaxing place with no vehicular traffic; just paths lined with flowering plants and thatched wooden houses. Take a short boat ride through the flooded forest to tranquil Lake Tarapoto in search of elusive pink dolphins before returning to your lodge.

This beautiful, well-run lodge offers spacious accommodation, great food and imaginative excursions. Owned by renowned artist and photographer Diego Samper, Calanoa Lodge has rustic cabins with river or jungle views.

Cabins can accommodate 6-8 people in separate bedrooms on different floors, but couples or smaller families may have cabins all to themselves. The cabins have comfortable beds with good quality linen, mosquito netting and private bathrooms. The sides of some cabins are open with just netting to protect from insects, providing an authentic jungle experience.

Food is very good and meals are taken in a communal dining room. There is electricity all day from solar panels. Excursions are led by local non-English speaking indigenous guides but we will arrange for an English-speaking guide to accompany you.

The charming, friendly indigenous community Mocagua, famed for its art, is just a 20-minute walk away.

Day 12 - Bogota
Fly to Bogotá and connect with international flight.

Return to Leticia by boat. Discuss with your guide how best to spend any free time before travelling back to the airport for your flight to Bogotá, with connecting international flight.

Off the beaten track Colombia: San Agustin and the Amazon full itinerary
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Overview
Places Visited

The places you’ll stay and explore on this tour. Here’s a closer look at each one and what makes it worth the trip.

Colonial history, world-class museums and modern urban energy combine beneath the dramatic peaks of the Andes in Bogotá, Colombia, the country’s vibrant capital. Sitting at over 2,600m above sea level, Bogotá blends cobbled colonial streets with sophisticated cultural institutions, lively cafés and some of the country’s best nightlife.

Bogota

Volcanoes, steep emerald valleys, sugar plantations and traditional mountain villages make up Colombia’s southern heartland, and San Agustín, Popayán & Cali are its three great draws.

San Agustin, Popayan and Cali

Dense rainforest, mighty rivers and indigenous communities create an unforgettable Amazonian adventure in one of the most remote and biodiverse regions on Earth. Far from Colombia’s cities and mountain landscapes, the Colombian Amazon offers intimate wildlife encounters, ancient cultures and access to one of the greatest natural wonders.

The Colombian Amazon
Overview
Highlights

This inspiring tour of San Agustín plunges you into the unique cultures of historical and modern day Colombia, travelling by road through exquisite natural landscapes. From the quirky little town of Villa Vieja on the banks of Rio Magdalena admire the star-speckled skies of the Tatacoa Desert and travel on through spectacular mountain scenery to San Agustín where fascinating pre-Columbian statues dot the fertile countryside of coffee and cattle farms.

Continue by road to Popayán, a restored Spanish colonial city of graceful white colonnaded buildings, from where you can visit the villages of the Guambiano indians, a community with a proud heritage.

Then fly to Leticia in the Colombian Amazon. While sharing a common culture with the Amazon region in the neighbouring countries, life here has a personality of its own.  As well as looking out for monkeys, parrots and pink dolphins, you will visit charming and welcoming indigenous communities, with a chance to admire of even buy some of the work of their talented artisans.

Rosie Kay travel expert

Rosie Kay

Travel Expert

All of our experts have lived or travelled extensively in Latin America, so you will receive unrivalled advice based on unique personal experiences.

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What you need to know
Essentials

The practical detail for this tour, all in one place. Transport, accommodation, what’s included and what to pack, so you know exactly what to expect before you go.

Colombia information
What's included in the price
Services of our team of experts in our London office
Services of Journey Latin America local representatives and guides
All land and air transport in Latin America
Accommodation as specified
Meals as specified
Excursions as specified, including entrance fees
Taxes and compulsory charges
Included Excursions
Villa Vieja: Tatacoa Desert walk
Villa Vieja: Magdalena River boat trip
San Agustín: tour of archaeological park
Popayán: Guambiano communities
Popayán: Walking tour
Bogotá: Walking tour with Gold Museum
Amazon: Guided jungle hikes
Amazon: Visit to Mocagua indiigenous community
Amazon: Puerto Narino & Tarapoto Lake
What's not included in the price
Tips and gratuities
Meals other than specified
Leticia tourist tax (about $US 10-14)
International flights to Latin America
Optional excursions
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Rosie Kay
Rosie Kay
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Rosie embarked on a year-long backpacking trip across Latin America. She is excited to share her knowledge and experiences with others.

Finn Clennett
Finn Clennett
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Finn discovered his passion for travel on an extensive 18-month trip to Latin America, experiencing the vibrant Carnaval in Rio, the end-of-the-world city of Ushuaia, trekking the Andes and volunteering on the Galápagos Islands.

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Maggie Wilson
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Maggie visited Latin America on her first backpacking trip when she was 19. Since then, she has taken every opportunity to travel, and has managed to explore a lot of the region in subsequent trips.

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Gary Tombs
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Gary discovered what he had been missing with his first foray into the wilds of Latin America. In his role as Product Manager, he combines this personal obsession with years of industry experience to help ensure that travellers will fall for the region every bit as much as he has.

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What to do

Things to do

We proudly offer the widest range of activities, excursions and one-of-a-kind experiences across all our destinations, tried and tested personally by our travel experts.

San Agustin

Hundreds of enigmatic carved statues of humans and animals are scattered over an area of beautiful hills at San Agustin in Colombia’s Beautiful South.    

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Visit the gorgeous countryside which is the territory of the Guambiano indians and their famous market at Silvia.

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Popayan's main cathedral

Stroll through the elegant white-washed Spanish colonial streets of unspoilt Popayán in southern Colombia.  

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Wander around the impressive displays of pre-Columbian metalwork at this world-class museum celebrating a substance with great significance to South American culture and history.

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Parrots, toucans, monkeys, sloths and even pink and grey dolphins can be spotted in the Amazon of Colombia by the patient observer. 

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Visit Puerto Nariño in the Colombian Amazon, a peaceful river village which is a shining light of sustainable living. 

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Where to stay

Accommodation

Browse our unrivalled portfolio of accommodation. Every option has been carefully chosen by our team of travel experts, so you can rest assured that you will relax in utter comfort

Hotel La Plazuela is a colonial style mid-range property close to Popayán’s beautiful main plaza.

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Monasterio San Agustin is a superior colonial-style boutique hotel overlooking San Agustín.

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Calanoa is a beautiful jungle lodge, just an hour’s boat ride from Leticia in Colombia’s Amazon region.

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Our exciting range of articles on Latin America explore everything from iconic destinations and lesser-known cultural gems to delicious traditional recipes. You’ll also find exclusive travel tips, first-hand client reviews and the chance to get your personal questions answered by our travel experts.

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To round the corner of a mountain and see the lost citadel of Machu Picchu unfold beneath you remains one of the most awe-inspiring experiences in Latin America, one of those dreamlike experiences that makes travelling here truly extraordinary.  

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The Pantanal wetlands cover an area almost the size of the British Isles and offers better wildlife opportunities than the Amazon. Writer and photographer Alex Bellos discovers them.

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Level definitions

Essential
What it means

Stay in comfortable, well-located hotels chosen to keep you close to the action. These are reliable, practical places with everything you need for a good night’s sleep, sometimes a smaller or family-run find, sometimes a larger, more functional hotel. It’s a straightforward style of stay that keeps costs down and leaves more of your budget for the experiences themselves.

Premium
What it means

Return each evening to well-appointed hotels chosen for their comfort and setting. Rooms are spacious and properly equipped, with all the mod cons you’d expect, and facilities to include a restaurant, a bar or lounge, and often a pool or spa to unwind in. It’s an easy, comfortable style of travel, with somewhere relaxed to look forward to each day.

Essential
What it means

Settle into stylish hotels picked for their character, setting and service. That might be a luxurious city hotel like the Loi Suites in Buenos Aires, or somewhere with a setting you won’t forget, a former estancia on the Patagonian steppe or a lodge at the foot of Machu Picchu. This is our most memorable style, where the hotel becomes part of the journey itself.

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