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Self-drive Nicaragua: Adventures by road

Trips to Tailor

14 days from £2,350

per person
Based on two people sharing & excluding flights
A self-drive holiday offering freedom and flexibility in an unspoilt, ultra-friendly country. Visit mountainside coffee plantations and cloud forests, restored colonial cities, an idyllic island in Lake Nicaragua and a super-cool surf-beach resort.
What to expect
Itinerary

Explore the tour day by day, from the highlights to the quieter moments in between. Here’s how each day unfolds and what to expect along the way.

Day 1 - Managua
Arrive in Managua, transfer to hotel in a smart residential district.

Managua is a vibrant modern city hugging the southern banks of Lake Nicaragua. There is little evidence of its colonial past – the result of a devastating earthquake which virtually flattened the capital in 1972. It is a confusing, sprawling metropolis but offers excellent shopping, good restaurants and a boisterous nightlife.

This tranquil colonial-style hotel comes as a bit of a surprise, situated in a rather smart, upmarket residential district of Managua and close to the modern financial and commercial centre.

The guest rooms aren’t large, but they have plenty of character being individually decorated, with exposed wooden ceilings and antique style beds. A buffet breakfast is served beside the patio and there is a small restaurant offering French cuisine. There are also numerous eateries nearby as well as bars and shops.

The shady garden, replete with tropical foliage, is a nice place to enjoy a cocktail, and there’s a pool accessed through a rather grand arch.

Day 2 - Matagalpa
Pick up your car; drive to Selva Negra cloudforest, Matagalpa

You will set off on your road trip across Nicaragua from the capital, and over the next 2 weeks our suggested route covers approximately 800km with the longest single journey about 4 hours. However, chances are you will be intrigued by a detour, or pause to enjoy a coffee or a picnic in a beauty spot.

Our local partners will be on hand to help with the collection of your vehicle. A standard 4×2 SUV is suitable for the route covered, but upon request we can upgrade your vehicle to a 4×4 if you prefer.

Set off north towards Matagalpa. This busy city is set within a valley surrounded by hills shimmering with the polished green of the coffee plantations. Matagalpa is at the heart of Nicaragua’s coffee industry although eco-tourism has also become an important cog in its economy. It serves as a gateway to the country’s most picturesque mountains and the Selva Negra Cloud Forest Reserve with its many hiking possibilities

Just 15km beyond the city you reach the cool cloud forest air of Selva Negra and your lodge on a working coffee estate.

Selva Negra Lodge has a rich history and its owners are fifth generation German coffee producers.

The lodge blends perfectly into its natural surroundings as each room is protected and insulated by a bed of tropical cloud forest. The smart timber bungalows and chalets have polished wood interiors, while the restaurant sits beside a tree-shaded lake. There’s also a wooden fairy-tale chapel, built for a family wedding.

Selva Negra is still a thriving coffee estate with its own protected reserve full of walking trails, an ideal base for exploring the surrounding area on foot or horseback. The lodge produces organic coffee and organic beef, as well as composting, waste reduction, methane generation for cooking fuel and hydropower for electricity. The working farm produces much of what is eaten at the lodge and a cheese factory produces first class Gouda and Manchego.

Day 3
At leisure in the Selva Negra Cloud Forest Reserve.

Staying at Selva Negra Lodge on the coffee estate itself, you are well positioned to explore a landscape of cool misty forests of pine and oaks strangled by bromeliads, which create a fairytale environment through which wind over a dozen marked trails. Birds flit between the 30 secretive creeks and around the coffee plantation itself. You may even spot the elusive but dazzling Resplendent quetzal.

The estate is a monument to sustainability and organic flowers and vegetables grown here are served in the lodge’s restaurant.

Selva Negra Lodge has a rich history and its owners are fifth generation German coffee producers.

The lodge blends perfectly into its natural surroundings as each room is protected and insulated by a bed of tropical cloud forest. The smart timber bungalows and chalets have polished wood interiors, while the restaurant sits beside a tree-shaded lake. There’s also a wooden fairy-tale chapel, built for a family wedding.

Selva Negra is still a thriving coffee estate with its own protected reserve full of walking trails, an ideal base for exploring the surrounding area on foot or horseback. The lodge produces organic coffee and organic beef, as well as composting, waste reduction, methane generation for cooking fuel and hydropower for electricity. The working farm produces much of what is eaten at the lodge and a cheese factory produces first class Gouda and Manchego.

Day 4 - Leon
Drive to León.

The total journey total time to Nicaragua’s second city of León is 3-4 hours if you drive direct, a distance of 155km. Descending from the highlands, you’ll pass coffee plantations and spot roadside stalls laden with orchids and bromeliads. Approaching the hot coastal plains around León, the volcanic scenery is impressive with views of Momotombo across the rice fields.

León was founded in 1524 and moved to its present site 35km away after being devastated by an earthquake in 1610. Formerly Nicaragua’s capital, it has retained much of its ecclesiastical and intellectual heritage. Many of the building walls are daubed with colourful Sandinista and anti-American murals and ridden with bullet holes – a poignant symbol of Nicaragua’s turbulent past.

View of Leon

Hotel El Convento, an atmospheric former convent enjoys a prime location just a stone’s throw from the main square and cathedral. It retains a sense of the city’s colonial past without being stuffy, mixing a carefully chosen collection of antiques with more modern furnishings and works of art.

Room décor is rustic yet contemporary with white or exposed brick walls, wood-beamed ceilings and cool terracotta tiled floors. Many original architectural features of the 17th century building have been retained and the simple white and jade colour scheme allows them to shine.

Landscaped gardens lie within the confines of the large courtyard (once the convent’s cloister), with grand palm trees rising high above the tiled roofs and shady colonnaded walkways. There is a small pool overlooked by tropical greenery, and a pleasant restaurant and bar area.

Day 5
Explore León with a local guide

León is Nicaragua’s most ebullient city, with a lively university and a thriving intellectual and cultural life.

Your guided walking city tour will reveal the history of the modern day city, a colonial masterpiece rivalled only by Granada, with the trademark adobe colonial façades, narrow streets and pretty squares, dominated by a number of grandiose churches (many connected by tunnels). These include the imposing cathedral, the largest in the Americas, which took over 100 years to build. The city has a history of alliance to revolutionary causes and you’ll see what remains of some of the 1970s anti-Somoza murals.

Cathedral in Leon , Nicaragua

Hotel El Convento, an atmospheric former convent enjoys a prime location just a stone’s throw from the main square and cathedral. It retains a sense of the city’s colonial past without being stuffy, mixing a carefully chosen collection of antiques with more modern furnishings and works of art.

Room décor is rustic yet contemporary with white or exposed brick walls, wood-beamed ceilings and cool terracotta tiled floors. Many original architectural features of the 17th century building have been retained and the simple white and jade colour scheme allows them to shine.

Landscaped gardens lie within the confines of the large courtyard (once the convent’s cloister), with grand palm trees rising high above the tiled roofs and shady colonnaded walkways. There is a small pool overlooked by tropical greenery, and a pleasant restaurant and bar area.

Day 6 - Granada
Drive from León to Granada.

Your journey time is about 3 hours (134km). Taking the Pan American Highway you’ll be following volcanoes all the way back to Managua – the chain is only broken by the vast Lake Managua.  You can visit the town of Masaya and the spectacular crater of Masaya Volcano en route or on your free day in the city.

Finally, arrive at Granada, founded in 1524 and the oldest city in the New World. It lies at the foot of Mombacho Volcano. The city became very rich on the back of the gold trade but was regularly plundered by pirates and completely razed by American mercenary William Walker at the beginning of the 19th century.

However, Granada has since been wonderfully restored and its colourful colonial houses and cobbled streets that run down to the shores of Lake Nicaragua are a delight.

Granada Nicaragua

The attractive colonial mansion housing this lovely hotel has a prime location right on the tree-shaded Plaza Mayor and facing the exquisite golden cathedral in Granada, probably Nicaragua’s most evocative city. Families stroll through the square while the famous horses and carriages line up waiting to take you trotting round the s streets, so evocative of the prosperous Spanish colonial era.

You can watch all this activity from the hotel’s terrace, which has a plush wine bar at one end and a more casual café at the other. There are 27 guest rooms wrapped around a central courtyard with large plants, water features and an attractive swimming pool. All are spacious and first floor rooms have the added advantage of a balcony, some overlooking the square. There is no restaurant as such but there are numerous eateries within walking distance of the hotel.

Day 7 - Granada
Explore Granada with a local guide

On a guided city tour visit Granada’s colonial churches, strolling down the narrow streets and passing graceful colonial houses. Many of the places of interest are within the vicinity of the main square. These include the beautiful baroque La Merced church, the Casa de Los Tres Mundos – now a cultural centre for local musicians and dancers; and the 16th-century San Francisco convent.

Later, embark on a small launch for a relaxing boat ride in the sheltered waters around the peaceful Isletas, hundreds of tiny, bright green and thickly forested islands created by eruptions from the bulky Mombacho Volcano which looms over the region. Small fishing communities thrive here and some islands host impressive weekend retreats owned by wealthy Nicaraguans.

The attractive colonial mansion housing this lovely hotel has a prime location right on the tree-shaded Plaza Mayor and facing the exquisite golden cathedral in Granada, probably Nicaragua’s most evocative city. Families stroll through the square while the famous horses and carriages line up waiting to take you trotting round the s streets, so evocative of the prosperous Spanish colonial era.

You can watch all this activity from the hotel’s terrace, which has a plush wine bar at one end and a more casual café at the other. There are 27 guest rooms wrapped around a central courtyard with large plants, water features and an attractive swimming pool. All are spacious and first floor rooms have the added advantage of a balcony, some overlooking the square. There is no restaurant as such but there are numerous eateries within walking distance of the hotel.

Day 8
At leisure in Granada. Evening visit to Masaya Volcano (conditions permitting).

A free day to further soak up the photogenic charms of Nicaragua’s showpiece city.

At sunset we take you on a private (guided) adventure to Masaya volcano set within Nicaragua’s first national park, 28km from Granada. We drive up to the rim of the volcano’s crater with views into the steaming, sizzling orifice itself, where the boiling, incandescent magma is an impressive sight. You should be able to observe green parakeets which approach the volcano to roost. The exhilarating experience includes a visit to a viewpoint where you can spend a few minutes looking down at the red and glowing lava in the fiery depths of the crater mouth.

Please note (March 2024): Masaya volcano is currently closed to visitors due to heightened volcanic activity.

Woman owner a small business selling organic flowers in Nicaragua, Central America, Latin America

The attractive colonial mansion housing this lovely hotel has a prime location right on the tree-shaded Plaza Mayor and facing the exquisite golden cathedral in Granada, probably Nicaragua’s most evocative city. Families stroll through the square while the famous horses and carriages line up waiting to take you trotting round the s streets, so evocative of the prosperous Spanish colonial era.

You can watch all this activity from the hotel’s terrace, which has a plush wine bar at one end and a more casual café at the other. There are 27 guest rooms wrapped around a central courtyard with large plants, water features and an attractive swimming pool. All are spacious and first floor rooms have the added advantage of a balcony, some overlooking the square. There is no restaurant as such but there are numerous eateries within walking distance of the hotel.

Day 9 - San Jorge (Nicaragua) - Ometepe
Drive from Granada to San Jorge and take the ferry to Ometepe Island.

It’s about 2 hours to the ramshackle lakeshore port at San Jorge, a drive of around 75km from where, local ferries operate to the island of Ometepe in Lake Nicaragua. Boarding a ferry in Nicaragua will feel like a very different experience when compared with the ferries we’re used to in Europe but our local partners will be available at the port to assist.

It’s around an hour to the port of Moyogalpa on Ometepe and then a short drive to your lodgings for the next couple of nights where you can park up, settle in a get used to your new, slower paced surroundings. 

Ometepe is a relaxed, tranquil island rising majestically from Lake Nicaragua. It’s  dominated by twin conical volcanoes and is partially blanketed with lush jungle vegetation populated by monkeys and a plethora of bird species. Life here has been unchanging for decades if not centuries. Take care where you drive as only one road has been fully paved, but this has helped preserve this special island’s enduring feeling of remoteness.

Beach at Hotel Villa Paraiso

In splendid isolation in the middle of Lake Nicaragua, the dramatic forested island of Ometepe is dominated by the peaks of two volcanoes and fringed by beautiful white-sand beaches.

Accommodation on the island is simple and in our opinion the friendly, family-owned Villa Paraíso is still among the most inviting of Ometepe’s guesthouses. The property enjoys a secluded spot on Playa Santo Domingo, where its cosy cabins sit within a landscaped garden.

Most have private bathrooms with hot water; some also have a kitchen. All come with air-conditioning and a front porch with hammocks and chairs to relax in. There’s also a thatched bar and restaurant serving traditional Nicaraguan fare. A variety of activities can be arranged including volcano hikes, trips to the petroglyphs and bike rental.

Day 10 & 11
At leisure on Ometepe.

Enjoy island life with the freedom of your hire car. Or you can park up and let us take you on an island tour, including the luxuriant nature reserve at Charco Verde, alive with the call of howler monkeys and birds. There’s a calm lagoon covered in mangroves and fallen trees, creating a fairy-tale atmosphere. The tour continues to the village of Altagracia to view the pre-Columbian statues in the courtyard of the oldest church on the island. You’ll also visit a coffee and cacao plantation before stopping off at Ojo de Agua, a forest-fringed natural swimming pool with a café for a refreshing swim in the crystal-clear waters. Alternatively, for the very active, we can arrange guided hikes up Ometepe’s volcanoes, Maderas or Concepción.

Ometepe
Beach at Hotel Villa Paraiso

In splendid isolation in the middle of Lake Nicaragua, the dramatic forested island of Ometepe is dominated by the peaks of two volcanoes and fringed by beautiful white-sand beaches.

Accommodation on the island is simple and in our opinion the friendly, family-owned Villa Paraíso is still among the most inviting of Ometepe’s guesthouses. The property enjoys a secluded spot on Playa Santo Domingo, where its cosy cabins sit within a landscaped garden.

Most have private bathrooms with hot water; some also have a kitchen. All come with air-conditioning and a front porch with hammocks and chairs to relax in. There’s also a thatched bar and restaurant serving traditional Nicaraguan fare. A variety of activities can be arranged including volcano hikes, trips to the petroglyphs and bike rental.

Days 12
Ferry back to the mainland and drive to San Juan del Sur.

It’s time to drive back to the port and board the ferry. After heading back across the lake to San Jorge it’s only an hour or so to the Pacific coast resort of San Juan del Sur.

As visitors returned to Nicaragua in the 1990s, San Juan’s charms were soon rediscovered by backpackers and surfers and it remains justiably popular for its laid-back vibe and pretty bay, and the shoreline is decorated with a necklet of tiny demerara-coloured sandy beaches. We’ve arranged a 2-night stay here, and extra nights can be added if you wish to extend it.

View of San Juan del Sur from the local mountain hill, Nicaragua
View of San Juan del Sur from the local mountain hill, Nicaragua

Across the road from the beach, set at one end of San Juan del Sur’s sweeping bay, Hotel Victoriano captures the essence of a traditional Caribbean plantation house. The hotel has an intriguing history (once even playing host to Mark Twain) and a distinct seaside vibe.

Cosy, well-equipped guestrooms lead out onto balconies with ocean views, while teak furniture and hibiscus print curtains add to the tropical ambience.

At the front of the hotel is a small pool and terrace where breakfast is served; opposite is a row of restaurants serving some of the best seafood dishes you’re likely to taste in Nicaragua.

Day 13 - Managua
At leisure on the Pacific coast.

San Juan del Sur is a tranquil Pacific coast fishing village at the head of a horseshoe-shaped bay peppered with small, private yachts and fishing boats. The laid-back, rustic village has clapboard Victorian houses, open air beach-side restaurants and brilliant sunset views from its tiny bays. Understandably, plenty of European and American ex-pats have put down roots here.

Other visitors are drawn to the area’s unspoilt beaches and it has also become an established spot for surfers. Fishing, snorkelling, scuba diving and mountain biking are other popular pursuits you might have a go at – there are local agencies which organise trips. Olive Ridley turtles hatch on the beaches just south of town between September and April – a spectacular sight.

Pacific Coast Nicaragua

Across the road from the beach, set at one end of San Juan del Sur’s sweeping bay, Hotel Victoriano captures the essence of a traditional Caribbean plantation house. The hotel has an intriguing history (once even playing host to Mark Twain) and a distinct seaside vibe.

Cosy, well-equipped guestrooms lead out onto balconies with ocean views, while teak furniture and hibiscus print curtains add to the tropical ambience.

At the front of the hotel is a small pool and terrace where breakfast is served; opposite is a row of restaurants serving some of the best seafood dishes you’re likely to taste in Nicaragua.

14
Drive back to Managua airport, drop off car, take international flight.

It’s around 3 hours’ drive from San Juan back to the car rental office at Managua international airport. Hand over your car and proceed to the terminal building to check in for your international flight (not included).

Self-drive Nicaragua: Adventures by road full itinerary
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Overview
Places Visited

The places you’ll stay and explore on this tour. Here’s a closer look at each one and what makes it worth the trip.

Swap beaches and volcanoes for cool cloud forest and coffee-growing hills in Nicaragua’s mountainous north. Matagalpa, where cloud forest creates perfect conditions for shade-grown coffee and pulls in birdwatchers and hikers. It’s a slower, greener side of Nicaragua, and one of the most rewarding additions you can make to an itinerary.

Matagalpa and the north

León is Nicaragua’s intellectual and cultural capital – grand colonial architecture, revolutionary history and a thriving artistic community make it one of Central America’s most fascinating cities. It’s known for its red-tiled buildings, elegant plazas and the powerful role it’s played in Nicaragua’s political and cultural identity.

Leon

One of Central America’s most beautiful colonial cities is on the shores of Lake Nicaragua. Granada is one of the oldest cities in Central America, and it’s still one of our favourite places to send travellers in Nicaragua – colourful streets, cobbled squares and Mombacho Volcano watching over it all.

Granada

Ometepe is one of Central America’s most remarkable landscapes – two volcanic peaks rising dramatically from the waters of Lake Nicaragua to form the world’s largest freshwater island. Relaxed and tranquil, it offers a unique mix of natural beauty, rural life and outdoor adventure.

Ometepe Island

Golden beaches and jungle-covered cliffs set the scene for Nicaragua Pacific Coast holidays. It’s one of the wildest, least developed stretches of shoreline in Central America. Close to the Costa Rican border, the little fishing town of San Juan del Sur draws surfers from all over. Learn to surf, watch pelicans, or simply to unwind.

Pacific coast
Overview
Highlights

Nicaragua is one of Latin America’s remaining true adventure destinations. Although its civil war ended in 1990, this friendly country still feels relatively off the beaten track, especially when compared with its near neighbours. And this is exactly where Nicaragua’s appeal lies: gorgeous rural scenery, crossed by sometimes empty roads where you are more likely to come across cattle being herded by cowboys or rickety overloaded buses than queues of cars. You’re never far from a hammock or rocking chair and age-old traditions survive.

As roads and infrastructure improve, more adventurous self-drivers have begun to discover Nicaragua. Whether driving west or east over the continental divide you are never far from a spectacular volcanic view. The landscape is peppered with colonial cities, tropical forest reserves and defined by a rugged stretch of golden Pacific coastline. In your pre-booked hire car you can drive at your own leisurely pace, with the freedom to stop off at interesting little market towns or a panoramic viewpoint and still be at your next pre-booked hotel in plenty of time for a sun-downer on the terrace.

Our 2-week self-drive holiday connects cloud forests of northern Nicaragua with Granada and Leon – twin cities with very different histories, before crossing Lake Nicaragua by ferry to Isla de Ometepe. Finally there’s time to unwind on the Pacific shores of San Juan del Sur. Our route covers some of the most enjoyable attractions of this land of soothing scenery, tropical warmth, and low-key towns where a genuine welcome is extended by local people to visitors passing through.

Mary Anne Nelson travel expert

Mary Anne Nelson

Travel Expert

All of our experts have lived or travelled extensively in Latin America, so you will receive unrivalled advice based on unique personal experiences.

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What you need to know
Essentials

The practical detail for this tour, all in one place. Transport, accommodation, what’s included and what to pack, so you know exactly what to expect before you go.

Nicaragua information
What's included in the price
Services of our team of experts in our London office
Services of Journey Latin America local representatives and guides
Car hire for 13 days
Accommodation as specified
Breakfast daily
Excursions as specified, including entrance fees
Taxes and compulsory charges
Included Excursions
León: Guided walking tour
Granada: City orientation and boat trip on Lake Nicaragua
What's not included in the price
Tips and gratuities
Excess waiver insurance for the car
Meals other than specified
Optional excursions
International Flights
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Rosie Kay
Rosie Kay
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Rosie embarked on a year-long backpacking trip across Latin America. She is excited to share her knowledge and experiences with others.

Finn Clennett
Finn Clennett
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Finn discovered his passion for travel on an extensive 18-month trip to Latin America, experiencing the vibrant Carnaval in Rio, the end-of-the-world city of Ushuaia, trekking the Andes and volunteering on the Galápagos Islands.

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Maggie Wilson
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Maggie visited Latin America on her first backpacking trip when she was 19. Since then, she has taken every opportunity to travel, and has managed to explore a lot of the region in subsequent trips.

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What to do

Things to do

We proudly offer the widest range of activities, excursions and one-of-a-kind experiences across all our destinations, tried and tested personally by our travel experts.

Walking tour in Granada, Nigaragua

Explore the historic treasure trove of one of Latin America’s oldest and most beautiful cities.

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Cacao

Visit Matagalpa to experience the local culture and take a tour of a chocolate factory for an insight into the production process and the chance to sample the finished product.

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Sunset boat ride in Nicaragua

Drift past the volcanic ‘isletas’ that dot the vast surface of Lake Nicaragua, mirroring the colours of the sunset.

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Discover the fascinating history of Nicaragua’s former capital, a city of red-tiled roofs, narrow cobbled streets and crumbling colonial architecture.

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Soak up the authentic atmosphere at a colourful Indian market beneath a spectacular volcano.

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San Ramón Waterfall

Walk to San Ramón waterfall on the slopes of Maderas volcano, admiring the natural landscape and views out over Lake Nicaragua.

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Where to stay

Accommodation

Browse our unrivalled portfolio of accommodation. Every option has been carefully chosen by our team of travel experts, so you can rest assured that you will relax in utter comfort

Beachfront hotel in the style of a traditional Caribbean plantation house, with an intriguing history and a distinct seaside vibe.

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Plaza Colon is an attractive colonial-style hotel on the delightful main square in Granada.

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Atmospheric 17th century convent transformed into an enchanting, art-filled hotel with landscaped gardens enclosed by a tranquil courtyard.

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Your edit for Latin American Inspiration

Papagaio

Our exciting range of articles on Latin America explore everything from iconic destinations and lesser-known cultural gems to delicious traditional recipes. You’ll also find exclusive travel tips, first-hand client reviews and the chance to get your personal questions answered by our travel experts.

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To round the corner of a mountain and see the lost citadel of Machu Picchu unfold beneath you remains one of the most awe-inspiring experiences in Latin America, one of those dreamlike experiences that makes travelling here truly extraordinary.  

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The Pantanal wetlands cover an area almost the size of the British Isles and offers better wildlife opportunities than the Amazon. Writer and photographer Alex Bellos discovers them.

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Small, breathtakingly beautiful Costa Rica is a treasure trove for the nature lover. Trees laden with orchids are home to quetzals and hummingbirds, while the Caribbean shore hosts volcanic beaches and palm-sheltered coves.

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Level definitions

Essential
What it means

Stay in comfortable, well-located hotels chosen to keep you close to the action. These are reliable, practical places with everything you need for a good night’s sleep, sometimes a smaller or family-run find, sometimes a larger, more functional hotel. It’s a straightforward style of stay that keeps costs down and leaves more of your budget for the experiences themselves.

Premium
What it means

Return each evening to well-appointed hotels chosen for their comfort and setting. Rooms are spacious and properly equipped, with all the mod cons you’d expect, and facilities to include a restaurant, a bar or lounge, and often a pool or spa to unwind in. It’s an easy, comfortable style of travel, with somewhere relaxed to look forward to each day.

Essential
What it means

Settle into stylish hotels picked for their character, setting and service. That might be a luxurious city hotel like the Loi Suites in Buenos Aires, or somewhere with a setting you won’t forget, a former estancia on the Patagonian steppe or a lodge at the foot of Machu Picchu. This is our most memorable style, where the hotel becomes part of the journey itself.

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