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Self-drive Ecuador: The back roads of the Andes

Trips to Tailor

10 days from £3,200

per person
Based on two people sharing & excluding flights
An exhilarating self-drive adventure exploring the cloud forest of Ecuador’s Andean foothills on the fringe of the Amazon basin. 
What to expect
Itinerary

Explore the tour day by day, from the highlights to the quieter moments in between. Here’s how each day unfolds and what to expect along the way.

Day 1 - Quito
Arrive Quito, transfer to hotel in the historic centre.

Transfer to your hotel in Quito, the Andean capital of Ecuador. The active volcano Guagua Pichincha, to the east, glowers over the dynamic city which, at 2,850m, is one of highest capitals in the world. Quito is divided into two contrasting districts. The modern zone is characterised by towering glass buildings and houses banks, international companies, hotels, shops and restaurants, while the central colonial area has well-conserved and recently spruced-up white-washed architecture, open air markets and graceful Spanish-style mansions and churches.

El Panecillo in Quito, Ecuador

With a fantastic location on a cobbled street just around the corner from the old city’s central square, Casona de la Ronda is a small converted mansion that has been carefully restored to mirror the rich colonial history of its surroundings. The building abounds with character, and the courteous staff are committed to the highest levels of service.

The stylish, spacious and eminently comfortable guestrooms face out onto a pretty covered courtyard. Décor includes plenty of traditional features such as polished wood floors, stone walls and local textiles and paintings, but delicate floral murals, an impressive living wall of native plants and some bold design choices add a boutique edge. There’s a strikingly decorated viewpoint room looking out across the historic centre to the summit of El Panecillo, and a cosy lounge with an open fireplace. The restaurant, painted in a rich shade of burnt orange and lined with antique mirrors, serves a mixture of excellent local and international fare.

Day 2 - Quito
Guided walking tour of colonial Quito.

Visit the colonial centre of the capital, the first city ever to be named a World Heritage site. High on the agenda is a walk through the main plaza, the Plaza de Independencia, where you will see the government palace, the cathedral, and some of the most important churches built around the 16th and 17th centuries, including the monastery of San Francisco.

Quito, Ecuador - March 6, 2015: Activity in the Plaza Grande in the colonial center of Quito, Ecuador on March 6, 2015

With a fantastic location on a cobbled street just around the corner from the old city’s central square, Casona de la Ronda is a small converted mansion that has been carefully restored to mirror the rich colonial history of its surroundings. The building abounds with character, and the courteous staff are committed to the highest levels of service.

The stylish, spacious and eminently comfortable guestrooms face out onto a pretty covered courtyard. Décor includes plenty of traditional features such as polished wood floors, stone walls and local textiles and paintings, but delicate floral murals, an impressive living wall of native plants and some bold design choices add a boutique edge. There’s a strikingly decorated viewpoint room looking out across the historic centre to the summit of El Panecillo, and a cosy lounge with an open fireplace. The restaurant, painted in a rich shade of burnt orange and lined with antique mirrors, serves a mixture of excellent local and international fare.

Day 3 - Cosanga
Transfer to the airport to collect your hire car; set off on your self-drive adventure.

As you leave the car hire agency, which is well beyond the urban sprawl of Quito, you’ll follow a major road through Andean forests of hardy, red-barked polylepis shrubs up to the wind-blown prairie grasslands of the upland páramo.  Having climbed over a pass at over 4,000m, you start to descend towards the cloud forest  (this is bear country – keep your eyes peeled!) with if it’s clear, views on the snowy bulk of Antisana volcano.

It’s only about an hour’s drive from your departure before you reach the thermal baths at Papallacta – feel free to stop here to take a dip in the steamy waters at the leisure facility and maybe have a snack or even lunch.

The road then descends a valley between the crinkly mountains of two nature reserves, enriched with the dripping foliage of ever-thickening cloud forest and enlivened by the fluttering of birds’ wings.  At Baeza you turn onto the pristine tarmac of Route 45, turning off to reach your lodge at San Isidro.  If you haven’t lingered too long at Papallacta (which is a temptation) you may arrive in time for lunch there.

In the afternoon you can choose from a variety of activities and experiences offered at the lodge. We suggest you set out on their self-guided walking trail, which is marked with interpretation boards helping you to familiarise yourself with this new and exotic environment. There’s a thermal pool here too, a bit cooler than at Papallacta, with wonderful views of the conservation area..

Papallacta

San Isidro Lodge is nestled in the valley of the river Quijos, one of the westernmost headwaters of the Amazon, just two hours’ drive from Quito Airport. It sits at an elevation of 2,050m above sea level in a hilly zone still mostly blanketed by humid cloud forest. The property was originally founded as a cattle farm and was later converted into a birding lodge dedicated to the conservation and preservation of the montane forest environment. Although the lodge has undergone many upgrades since its initial opening, meaning it is now far more comfortable than an average birding lodge, conservation is still at the heart of everything that happens there.

Wildlife is prolific in the vicinity of the lodge and whilst no sightings can ever be guaranteed, guests may spot mammals such as tapirs, monkeys, ant-eaters and even spectacled bears. Bird watching remains the main attraction here though, with 20 walking trails into the forest (created by the local community) providing superb opportunities for spotting a variety of species. There are also plenty of other facilities and activities at the lodge including an outdoor thermal pool, board games, cooking lessons and painting.

The rooms are spread between a number of cabanas throughout the grounds and whilst they vary in size, shape and design, all have private bathrooms and Wi-Fi and most have a private balcony and large windows with views out over the tightly forested, crinkly hills beyond. The restaurant, which serves Ecuadorian dishes using locally sourced ingredients, also has stunning views and is frequently visited by hummingbirds. Included excursions (birdwatching, hiking and canoeing) are all offered on a shared basis – with other hotel guests – using a local (Spanish speaking) guide, so hiring an additional English-speaking guide is usually recommended (must be pre-booked).

Day 4 - Cosanga
Full day to explore the area around Cabañas San Isidro.

There’s a good choice of things to do from your lodge. The principal attraction for wildlife lovers is bird-watching: this is one of the country’s prime locations for spotting the myriad of bird species of the forest.  But that’s not all: as well as feeders for hummingbirds, there are feeding stations placed to attract tapirs and agoutis if you’re lucky you’ll spot one or two of these creatures.

You can set off with a local guide on a hike along the many kilometres of trails through the woodland, exploring by day, or by night (with a guide). Visit the Biology Station to see what scientific research is going on in the region, or, back at the lodge, take a cookery lesson to create Ecuadorian delicacies or try out the eight course tasting menu in the restaurant . (You have dinner included, this more extensive menu is charged extra).

San Isidro Lodge is nestled in the valley of the river Quijos, one of the westernmost headwaters of the Amazon, just two hours’ drive from Quito Airport. It sits at an elevation of 2,050m above sea level in a hilly zone still mostly blanketed by humid cloud forest. The property was originally founded as a cattle farm and was later converted into a birding lodge dedicated to the conservation and preservation of the montane forest environment. Although the lodge has undergone many upgrades since its initial opening, meaning it is now far more comfortable than an average birding lodge, conservation is still at the heart of everything that happens there.

Wildlife is prolific in the vicinity of the lodge and whilst no sightings can ever be guaranteed, guests may spot mammals such as tapirs, monkeys, ant-eaters and even spectacled bears. Bird watching remains the main attraction here though, with 20 walking trails into the forest (created by the local community) providing superb opportunities for spotting a variety of species. There are also plenty of other facilities and activities at the lodge including an outdoor thermal pool, board games, cooking lessons and painting.

The rooms are spread between a number of cabanas throughout the grounds and whilst they vary in size, shape and design, all have private bathrooms and Wi-Fi and most have a private balcony and large windows with views out over the tightly forested, crinkly hills beyond. The restaurant, which serves Ecuadorian dishes using locally sourced ingredients, also has stunning views and is frequently visited by hummingbirds. Included excursions (birdwatching, hiking and canoeing) are all offered on a shared basis – with other hotel guests – using a local (Spanish speaking) guide, so hiring an additional English-speaking guide is usually recommended (must be pre-booked).

Day 5 - Tena
Drive to Santa Rita, guided Pacari chocolate tour.

If you are at all interested in birds you won’t want to miss the pre-breakfast dawn hike as the forest awakes from its slumbers.  Spot species with bright plumage such as trogons and tanagers, tree-creepers and flycatchers as they seek out their breakfast.

After your own meal, stretch your legs with a stroll to the waterfall but be sure to be on the road by 10.30. driving through the Antisana Reserve where the road follows the transition zone between the Andes and the Amazon basin.  On your left is the Sumaco Napo-Galeras National Park, featuring the pointed peak of symmetrical volcano Sumaco, which is in constant eruption. The road twists and turns as it descends, the vegetation fringing it becoming more and more succulent as the temperature rises.  In harmony with a more tropical environment, local people live in thatched homes on stilts, and luscious fruits are on sale from stalls beside the road.

You’ll visit the cocoa plantation at Santa Rita, which is set off the main road down a gravel track. Having observed the beans growing on the farm you’ll be taken through the production process, where the beans are picked, roasted and ground. There may also be weaving, ceramics and dance presentations, interpretive trails to follow and talks about local legends.

Your appetite having been stimulated by tasting the high quality end product, you’ll have a traditional lunch, cooked in banana leaves, at a community tourism project in the village.

Afterwards, continue to your lodge.

Kuyana is a stunning boutique style ecolodge located in the Ecuadorian Amazon. Despite being just a 3.5 hour drive from Quito and within easy reach of the city of Tena, the lodge provides a great introduction for guests looking for an authentic jungle experience, without having to forego convenience and comfort.

Nestled on the banks of the Hollín River, the property provides an extraordinary opportunity to enjoy a magical jungle experience through genuine local experiences, incredible biodiversity, organic food, and rewarding adventure excursions. The seven comfortable rooms and bungalows are surrounded by nature, while the swimming pool, bar and restaurant offer a relaxing environment to unwind in after a day of exploration.

Day 6 - Tena
Optional activities.

At 300m above sea level, in the foothills of the Andes, this is a transition zone for vegetation between cloud and rainforest, the climate is fresher than lower down in the Amazon basin proper, creating an agreeable environment with few mosquitoes.

Here there’s a real choice to make according to your personal interests and enthusiasms. (These optional trips should be pre-booked before you go, discuss your choice with us when you book).

The undulating landscape means that there are plenty of waterfalls and fast-flowing rivers to explore and this region is a centre for white water rafting, you can experience grade lll rapids on the river Jatunyaku while enjoying magnificent jungle views.

Alternatively, drive to nearby Paikawe lagoon to take a canoe trip on the calm water accompanied by a knowledgeable guide, with opportunities to spot hoatzim (startling prehistoric-style birds), spider monkeys and caimans and then move on with a tranquil boat ride down the Napo river to visit the AmaZoonico animal rescue project to see how damaged animals recuperate and released back into the wild.

There is also a wide range of hikes through the forest to choose from near to your lodge.

Kuyana is a stunning boutique style ecolodge located in the Ecuadorian Amazon. Despite being just a 3.5 hour drive from Quito and within easy reach of the city of Tena, the lodge provides a great introduction for guests looking for an authentic jungle experience, without having to forego convenience and comfort.

Nestled on the banks of the Hollín River, the property provides an extraordinary opportunity to enjoy a magical jungle experience through genuine local experiences, incredible biodiversity, organic food, and rewarding adventure excursions. The seven comfortable rooms and bungalows are surrounded by nature, while the swimming pool, bar and restaurant offer a relaxing environment to unwind in after a day of exploration.

Day 7 - Banos
Drive to Baños via Puyo, visiting a botanical garden and waterfalls en route.

It’s only 96km to Puyo, a market town serving the various tribal communities in the vicinity and where you’ve a three course lunch booked at an excellent restaurant.  En route you will have a scheduled stop at Omaere Ethnobotanical Gardens which, as you would expect has collections of endemic medicinal plants, but is also concerned with reforestation and  there’s an education programme to assist local indigenous communities.

In the afternoon you’ll start driving back up towards the Andes. The drive from Puyo to Baños only takes an hour and a half or so without stops, but the variety of landscapes is stunning.

It’s a dramatic drive through a narrow gorge, a corridor between the ever-rising crests of vertiginous mountain ranges. In fact, it’s known as the Route of the Waterfalls and you can stop to stretch your legs with an hour long round trip to look down on the Pailon del Diablo (Devil’s Cauldron), one of the most impressive of these.

The valley narrows and you pass through several tunnels as you climb back through cloud forest rampant with orchids to the pleasant spa resort town Baños, clinging to the edge of a cliff face and rimmed by emerald hills. Glowering over the town is the volcano Tungurahua, still active with a few hissing fumeroles but not expected to erupt in the near future. Your lodge and spa, built in the style of a colonial hacienda, has a countryside location where you can drink in the views of exquisite Andean scenery.

Samari Spa Resort is a welcoming countryside property inspired by the design of a Spanish colonial hacienda with an authentic Ecuadorian ambiance and décor. Inside the low whitewashed buildings with their heavily tiled roofs, you’ll find a warm atmosphere with open log fires, dark wooden beams, antique furniture, terracotta floor tiles and exposed brick walls. It’s a family friendly place with snug and homely en suite bedrooms featuring cosy beds smothered by goose-feather duvets for chilly nights.

You’ll dine in the tavern-style restaurant which offers traditional and contemporary Ecuadorian food or seek out one of the bars dotted about the property. The on-site spa is a highlight, offering an array of relaxing treatments; there’s a sauna and a particularly lovely swimming pool.

The centre of Banos is around a 20-minute walk away and offers plenty of dining options, as well as acting as the hub for a collection of soft adventure activities such as rafting, walking, horse riding, bike riding and quad biking. The town is also famed for its thermal baths which provide a relaxing alternative to the more active excursions.

Day 8 - Banos
At leisure in Baños.

With its thermal baths, agreeable climate and relaxed atmosphere, it’s easy to spend a day just relaxing in Baños and at your lodge. If you fancy something a bit more active however, you can fix yourself up with a rafting, tubing, horse-riding or cycling trip locally, there are plenty of agencies in town. The latest fad is for “swing jumping” where you jump from a bridge and swing like a pendulum. It’s a bit like bungee-jumping and not really something we’d recommend you try, but it might be fun watching others doing it!

Samari Spa Resort is a welcoming countryside property inspired by the design of a Spanish colonial hacienda with an authentic Ecuadorian ambiance and décor. Inside the low whitewashed buildings with their heavily tiled roofs, you’ll find a warm atmosphere with open log fires, dark wooden beams, antique furniture, terracotta floor tiles and exposed brick walls. It’s a family friendly place with snug and homely en suite bedrooms featuring cosy beds smothered by goose-feather duvets for chilly nights.

You’ll dine in the tavern-style restaurant which offers traditional and contemporary Ecuadorian food or seek out one of the bars dotted about the property. The on-site spa is a highlight, offering an array of relaxing treatments; there’s a sauna and a particularly lovely swimming pool.

The centre of Banos is around a 20-minute walk away and offers plenty of dining options, as well as acting as the hub for a collection of soft adventure activities such as rafting, walking, horse riding, bike riding and quad biking. The town is also famed for its thermal baths which provide a relaxing alternative to the more active excursions.

Day 9 - Cotopaxi
Drive up the Avenue of Volcanoes to Cotopaxi National Park.

Now back in the highlands, you’ll drive along one of Ecuador’s key arteries – possibly one of the most scenic roads in Latin America. The aptly named Avenue of the Volcanoes is flanked by a regiment of  dizzyingly-high snow-mantled mountains striding south of Quito down the Andean spine. It passes through a valley rich with a landscape of dense forest and tiny fields plastering impossibly steep slopes. Dotted around is a mix of deeply traditional indigenous and colonial settlements with horticultural and artisan markets and cottage industries.

Set off from Baños early if you’d like to visit one of the indigenous markets along the way (depending on day of travel). There are fine ones in Saquisili and Pujili), where mountains of agricultural produce and jumbles of domestic and artisan goods jostle for space..

Now you’ll be setting of away from the main road  to drive through Cotopaxi National Park, dominated by the superbly photogenic volcano of the same name (5,897m), a (very) occasionally active peak of shimmering ice surrounded by rumpled skirts of highland moor with a tundra-like vegetation of altitude-resistant shrubs and flowers.

The park is inhabited by over 90 species of bird from pocket-sized hummingbirds to giant condors and a variety of hardy mammals including deer, rabbits, Andean foxes and puma, which shelter from view in the lacy veils of frequent swirly mists. You can visit the interpretation centre and you have the opportunity to walk the trail surrounding the stunningly reflective Lake Limpiopungo, ringed by bird-filled reed beds.

Lunch is arranged for you at Tambopaxi, a lodge in an equally exquisite location, after which you drive on gravel tracks at lofty altitude in remote landscapes -adventurous, but safe.. You should arrive to spend the night at your cosy countryside lodge Chilcabamba, set within sight of Cotopaxi’s perfect cone, well before nightfall.

Snow covered peak of Cotopaxi volcano in the Galapagos

This rustic mountain lodge in the Avenue of the Volcanoes in the Ecuadorian Andes is situated at 3,500m but is dwarfed by the much higher peaks which surround it. There are epic views of Cotapaxi volcano, and everything about the location invites you to step outside and explore; plenty of activities are on offer, including walking and horse riding.

The lodge is mindfully eco-friendly, constructed from recycled materials but the shiny wooden furnishings and earthy colours give it a cosy feel, enhanced by the open fire in the living room. The lodge welcomes up to 24 guests in seven independent rooms equipped with private bathrooms with showers and three family cottages. They all have in-room stoves.

Wifi is sporadically available and there’s a laundry service. The lodge is managed by a couple who do not speak much English but are helpful and welcoming. Simple meals are served.

Chilcabamba Mountain Lodge has received a LATA Responsible Tourism ‘One to Watch’ award. The lodge is built from natural materials, organic waste is composted, and wastewater cleaned by a biodigester. Much of the lodge food and souvenirs is sourced locally, supporting local businesses and artisans.

Day 10 - Quito
Morning optional excursions; drop off car at airport; international flight.

If you have time, you might go for a hike or horse ride from the lodge in the morning.. Or you can set off on a 5 hour guided walk along the course of the Pita river, which is fed by the glacial meltwater of Cotopaxi, before continuing to Quito airport to fly home – or maybe we can tempt you to fly west to the Galápagos Islands…

Self-drive Ecuador: The back roads of the Andes full itinerary
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Overview
Places Visited

The places you’ll stay and explore on this tour. Here’s a closer look at each one and what makes it worth the trip.

Quito, Ecuador built around colonial history and Andean drama, sharing the highland valley. At 2,850m and ringed by volcanoes, the historic centre mixes cobbled streets, whitewashed façades and colourful churches with a modern city beyond. Quito holidays combine both, and work just as a standalone city break or the start of a longer trip.

Quito

Cross east from Quito and the peaks of the Avenue of the Volcanoes give way to cloud forest: misty valleys, thermal pools and rivers that tumble down towards the Amazon basin. Our Andes to Amazon holidays follow that same descent, threading through Baños, Papallacta and the jungle river-ports of Tena and Misahuallí.

Andes to Amazon

The Avenue of the Volcanoes showcases Ecuador’s most dramatic Andean landscapes, where snow-capped volcanoes, fertile valleys and traditional highland communities create unforgettable opportunities for hiking, wildlife and cultural discovery.

Avenue of the Volcanoes
Overview
Highlights

Between the high Andean plateaux studded with snow-dipped volcanoes and the sultry rainforest of the Amazon basin, the eastern foothills and valleys of Ecuador are stifled with the giant ferns, creepers and orchids of misty cloud forest. Winding its way south through this ethereal landscape, parallel with the Andean spine and tracing what is known as the ‘eyebrow of the jungle’ is a the paved road, Route 45. Recent improvements to this road mean that places once almost inaccessible to visitors are now brought within easy reach of Quito and the country’s principal highland cities.  

The traffic is relatively light and the route is wondrously scenic throughout, creating for independent drivers a brand new opportunity to discover a little-visited region by self-drive hire car. We’ve designed an innovative itinerary for you where you travel under your own steam down this road staying at forest-based lodges along the way, with opportunities to take a dip in thermal pools, go river rafting, jungle trail walking and wildlife spotting, while visiting local indigenous communities and their farms to immerse yourself in their way of life. 

Climbing back up to the high Andes you’ll return north to Quito along the famed Avenue of the Volcanoes, a completely different environment of wide open spaces blanketed by sprawling pastures and haciendas pitted with the perfect cones of a string of ice-clad mountain peaks, some still fizzing with activity. You’ll pull over to discover the dazzling colours of an indigenous market and venture off the paved road to explore safely the sublime Cotopaxi National Park, the most beautiful in the country. 

Juliet Ellwood travel expert

Juliet Ellwood

Travel Expert

All of our experts have lived or travelled extensively in Latin America, so you will receive unrivalled advice based on unique personal experiences.

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What you need to know
Essentials

The practical detail for this tour, all in one place. Transport, accommodation, what’s included and what to pack, so you know exactly what to expect before you go.

Ecuador & Galapagos Islands information
What's included in the price
Services of our team of experts in our London office
Services of Journey Latin America local representatives and guides
All land transport within Latin America
Car hire and insurance as specified
Accommodation as specified
Meals as specified
Excursions as specified
Taxes and compulsory charges
Included Excursions
Walking tour of colonial Quito
Visit Cotopaxi National Park
What's not included in the price
International flights to Latin America
Tips and gratuities
Meals other than specified
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Rosie Kay
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Rosie embarked on a year-long backpacking trip across Latin America. She is excited to share her knowledge and experiences with others.

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Finn Clennett
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Finn discovered his passion for travel on an extensive 18-month trip to Latin America, experiencing the vibrant Carnaval in Rio, the end-of-the-world city of Ushuaia, trekking the Andes and volunteering on the Galápagos Islands.

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Maggie Wilson
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Maggie visited Latin America on her first backpacking trip when she was 19. Since then, she has taken every opportunity to travel, and has managed to explore a lot of the region in subsequent trips.

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Gary discovered what he had been missing with his first foray into the wilds of Latin America. In his role as Product Manager, he combines this personal obsession with years of industry experience to help ensure that travellers will fall for the region every bit as much as he has.

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What to do

Things to do

We proudly offer the widest range of activities, excursions and one-of-a-kind experiences across all our destinations, tried and tested personally by our travel experts.

Explore the historic centre of the Ecuadorian capital in the company of a knowledgeable guide.

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Discover the journey of Ecuadorian cocoa from bean to chocolate, plantation to Waitrose.. 

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Travel down the Avenue of the Volcanoes to arrive at a national park dominated by one of the world’s tallest active volcanoes.

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Meet the people of a Quichua community in Ecuador’s Amazonia. 

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Go white-water river rafting in the headwaters of the Amazon in Ecuador’s Oriente. 

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Where to stay

Accommodation

Browse our unrivalled portfolio of accommodation. Every option has been carefully chosen by our team of travel experts, so you can rest assured that you will relax in utter comfort

Small boutique-style colonial mansion conversion mixing traditional features with bold design choices, including an impressive living wall and striking viewpoint room.

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Hamadryade Lodge is a peaceful, secluded retreat in the jungles of Ecuador’s Oriente.

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Samari Spa and Resort is a cosy countryside hotel built in Spanish colonial style close to Banos in Ecuador’s Andes.

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Essential
What it means

Stay in comfortable, well-located hotels chosen to keep you close to the action. These are reliable, practical places with everything you need for a good night’s sleep, sometimes a smaller or family-run find, sometimes a larger, more functional hotel. It’s a straightforward style of stay that keeps costs down and leaves more of your budget for the experiences themselves.

Premium
What it means

Return each evening to well-appointed hotels chosen for their comfort and setting. Rooms are spacious and properly equipped, with all the mod cons you’d expect, and facilities to include a restaurant, a bar or lounge, and often a pool or spa to unwind in. It’s an easy, comfortable style of travel, with somewhere relaxed to look forward to each day.

Essential
What it means

Settle into stylish hotels picked for their character, setting and service. That might be a luxurious city hotel like the Loi Suites in Buenos Aires, or somewhere with a setting you won’t forget, a former estancia on the Patagonian steppe or a lodge at the foot of Machu Picchu. This is our most memorable style, where the hotel becomes part of the journey itself.

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