Just Back From: Guatemala and Belize with Ben

Copywriter Ben Westwood reports on an unforgettable family adventure in Guatemala and Belize.

How did you get there?
We flew with British Airways and American Airlines from London via Miami to Guatemala City, and returned from Belize City via Miami.

Where did you go?
This was a special family holiday to treat my two children Jake and Isabella, who are 18 and 16 and just finished their A level and GCSE exams. I wanted to give them lots of new, unforgettable experiences, and the trip certainly did that! In Guatemala, we spent a day exploring historic Antigua, then visited tranquil Lake Atitlán for three days via shopping for colourful clothing and jewellery in Chichicastenango market. We then flew from Guatemala City to Flores and explored the amazing Tikal Mayan ruins before crossing to Belize and spending three days in the bird-filled jungle at Black Rock Lodge. We finished the trip with three days on the beach at Ambergris Caye and some incredible snorkelling.

Have you been to Guatemala or Belize before?
No. I had only visited Costa Rica in Central America, while most of my Latin American travels have been to South America. I wanted to visit somewhere new that combined adventure with relaxation. These two neighbouring countries seemed ideal: mountains, lakes and ancient ruins in Guatemala, jungle wildlife and Caribbean swimming and snorkelling in Belize.

Which was your favourite...?

Place: Lake Atitlán for its stunning scenery. The lake is overlooked by three towering volcanoes with steep forested hillsides. The local people are very friendly and proudly preserve their indigenous traditions. We took a boat trip, visiting the villages of Sant Marcos, San Pedro and San Juan, and toured the community workshops – chocolate, coffee, honey and textiles.

Hotel: Black Rock Lodge. It has a fantastic location above a river canyon in thick rainforest in the Maya Mountains of Belize. It’s a birdwatcher’s paradise and the restaurant terrace is a prime location to see species including social flycatchers, hummingbirds, tanagers, kingfishers and bare-throated tiger herons.

Excursion: A snorkelling trip off Ambergris Caye. Belize has the world’s second-largest barrier reef and the snorkelling is among the best on the planet. We went to Hol Chan Marine Reserve and saw barracuda, lionfish and stingray. The highlight though was Shark Ray Alley where fishermen have fed scavenging nurse sharks for years. We snorkelled right next to these amazing, docile creatures. While Isabella was reluctant at first, Jake took to it immediately. Some of the sharks were over seven feet long, but they seemed completely unconcerned by our presence, so any nerves quickly disappeared!

What was your most memorable moment?
Tikal ruins – one of the most incredible archaeological sites in the Americas with six remarkably well-preserved ancient pyramids in the midst of the jungle. Highlights included Temples I and II in the Great Plaza and climbing the biggest pyramid, 212-foot Temple IV, for the iconic view made famous by the film Return of the Jedi. The site is huge, so it’s easy to find quiet corners and we saw plenty of fascinating wildlife – a spider monkey, a pair of toucans and a friendly coatimundi foraging for food.

Were there any surprises along the way?
The trip went smoothly for the most part. The airport in Guatemala City felt quite chaotic but as planned we didn’t stay in the city at all, instead heading to nearby Antigua (pictured below), which is far quieter and more historic.

What tips do you have for travellers wanting to visit the same destinations?
Pace yourself and include relaxation as well as exploration. We enjoyed the peaceful atmosphere of Lake Atitlán before more intense experiences in the jungle, then finished our trip with some sunbathing and swimming in the Caribbean. This was the ideal blend of adventure and R&R.

Is there anything indispensable to pack or prepare for?
Mosquito repellent, lightweight trousers and long sleeves are essential for the jungle. However, consider getting natural sprays as those containing DEET are very strong. Sunhats, suncream and water bottles are essential, as the midday heat can be oppressive.

Any local snacks, dishes or drinks that should be sampled?
In Guatemala, be sure to try the refried beans and chicken stews such as Pepián and Jocón, as well as snacks including tamales and empanadas. On the Belize coast, the seafood is great, especially the fried snapper and breaded shrimp.

Sum up your trip in a sentence:
An adventurous once-in-a-lifetime family holiday that mixes jungle adventures with historic sites and relaxation on mountain lakes and Caribbean beaches.

• Ben Westwood travelled on a tailormade itinerary similar to our 14-day Family Guatemala and Belize: Ancient Temples and Caribbean Islands.