
How did you get there?
We flew with Avianca from London Heathrow via Bogotá, leaving the UK at 10pm. We had a few hours stopover in Bogotá before our onward flight and arrived in Quito to glorious sun, at 9:30am local time.
Where in Ecuador did you go?
We had one night in Quito, three nights up in the cloud forest area at two different lodges and then 10 days on the Galápagos Islands with a combination of island-hopping and cruising. It was absolutely fantastic!
What was your overall impression of the country?
Ecuador as a country has a warm and welcoming feeling, which you experience from the moment you arrive. The country is small and yet incredibly diverse, so it can be hard to know where to start; from the historical and cultural centre of Quito with the backdrop of the volcanoes to the biodiversity in the cloud forest and Galápagos. You definitely leave wanting to know more.
Have you been to Ecuador before? If so, how has it changed?
We had all been to Ecuador many years previously, but only Carrie had been to the Galápagos. Her time here in 2005 had been on Santa Cruz – the port town of Puerto Ayora has grown quite substantially but the wildlife was just as prolific.
Which was your favourite…
Place: With so many wonderful places to choose from, this is tough! The little port town of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristóbal island was a real surprise. The sleepy little town is set in a wide bay with turquoise water. There are stretches of golden sand littered with boisterous, inquisitive sea lions, as well as lovely local restaurants and little souvenir shops. As you walk along the seafront, you're likely to see turtles popping up for air, pelicans drying their wings and brightly coloured crabs scuttling around.
Hotel: The Maquipucuna Cloud Forest Lodge, two hours from Quito, was a treat for the senses. It's a comfy, characterful lodge, with a deep commitment to conservation, delicious home cooking and so many birds. It's amazing how wild and remote this lodge feels, even though it's so close to the capital.
Excursion: For me, snorkelling off the island of Chinese Hat. The sea lion pups love to come up to you while you're snorkelling and swim back and forth trying to play. Autumn can be a very magical time of year to visit the Galápagos, as you get to see so many sea lion pups, booby and frigatebird chicks and whales.
What were your most memorable moments?
On a morning ‘panga’ (small zodiac) excursion from our cruise, we saw lots of frigate birds gathering further out so we decided to head out to see what all the commotion was. As it turned out, there were two orcas in the bay, gracefully gliding in and out of the water. We kept our distance but in relative terms, we felt very close – such beautiful creatures. The whole experience of watching them and the sea birds swirling overhead was a moving reminder of how gorgeous nature can be.
Were there any surprises along the way?
When travelling in Ecuador you need to be prepared for all sorts of weather. We were surprised at how much it fluctuated. Although on the Equator, it can get quite cold when you are in and out of the water, plus some days were windier than others. Remember your raincoats, fleeces, sun cream and summer dresses!
What tips do you have for travellers visiting Ecuador and Galápagos?
Either before or after a Galápagos cruise, if time allows, we would recommend adding a few nights on land. After a cruise, it is a great opportunity to relax, soak up the atmosphere in the small towns, eat some delicious local food and stock up on souvenirs. You will still be surrounded by wildlife wherever you are!
Is there anything indispensable to pack or prepare for?
A few pairs of long socks! You are provided with wellies when heading out on your excursions in the cloud forest and having a selection of long socks to change into can be invaluable.
Any local snacks, dishes or drinks that should be sampled?
A warming cup of canelazo as you return to your boat after an hour of snorkelling is delicious. This is an Ecuadorian drink made from fresh fruit juice, sugar, cinnamon and aguardiente (sugar cane alcohol).
Any restaurant or bar recommendations?
Muyu Restaurant is excellent, part of the Golden Bay Hotel in San Cristóbal on the Galápagos. We enjoyed a really interesting and mouth-watering meal of ceviche, squid, smoked tuna, interesting vegetable dishes and deserts made with homegrown fruit, all washed down with their creative house cocktails. They have a very strong farm-to-table ethos and so much of what they serve in the restaurant is sourced locally, or even homegrown in their rooftop allotment.
Sum up your trip in a sentence.
A total wildlife immersion from aerial dive-bombing pelicans and boobies, wandering giant tortoises on the land and the rich underwater world. Every day presented new wildlife experiences!
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