Just Back From Cuba with Mary

Travel Expert Mary Anne Nelson describes her recent adventure to Cuba and shares her tips for those who want to visit.

How did you get there?
We flew to Havana with Air France via Paris.

Where in Cuba did you go?
We started in Havana, then drove to La Moka/Terrazas, Viñales, Cienfuegos and Trinidad. Here we left the car and continued with a driver to Santa Clara via Sancti Spiritus and end in Cayo Santa Maria.

What was your overall impression of the country?
I found it a fascinating place. You hear a lot about Cuba – the revolution, the embargo, Fidel Castro, rum, cigars, music, the people and their zest for life, but nothing ever prepares you for the real deal. People talk about politics – some subdued, some more open – and it’s prevalent in everything, but what caught my attention was the vibrant, loud, funny and talkative people.

Going into a shop can turn into a brilliant conversation about the birth of the grandkids, how to fix an antique door or how to keep the plants healthy, all in one fell swoop. The music is brilliant, the lingering sense of decadence and once glamorous buildings make you wish you could step in to sort it out. You also have to admire the fact that, despite the country’s hardships, the people are tremendously happy and welcoming. I loved it!

Which was your favourite…

Place: Trinidad – our excursion to Sugar Mill Valley (see below) was my favourite of the trip, and my favourite restaurant, San Jose, was also located there.

Hotel: Hostal Madero in Havana. Situated in a beautifully restored old house, this B&B is small but cosy and the staff were really lovely and attentive. I especially liked the breakfast patio, a mini jungle full of plants and light.

Excursion: I have to pick two: cocktail-making in Havana as you learn a lot about people and history, and visiting Trinidad and the Sugar Mill Valley. Both give you a great overview of the country's culture.

What were your most memorable moments?
The people in general – talking to them about anything and everything was a joy, but if I had to choose one moment it would be seeing people dancing in the Casa de la Trova in Trinidad. The natural flair, the movements flowing as if it were as simple as walking, and the sheer joy in the dancers’ faces were things I won't forget any time soon.

Were there any surprises along the way?
Pretty much everything, although the food in the private restaurants was probably the biggest. Cuba is not known for its food. It’s best if you don’t expect anything great in the government restaurants or hotels, but in the private ‘paladares’ it’s another story and we were pleasantly surprised!

What tips do you have for travellers wanting to visit the same destinations?
Invest time in exploring the country, don’t rush from one place to another, pay attention to the people and don’t expect things to work all the time – in fact, expect the unexpected. Self-driving can be entertaining but rewarding: come with a sense of adventure since, although there isn't much traffic, signposting is not great. Getting petrol can be a bit of a mission and the roads are sometimes not in the best condition. There's plenty to see across the island though, so as long as you're a relaxed driver you'll have an amazing time exploring it!

Is there anything indispensable to pack or prepare for?
Anything you think you might need in terms of toiletries, medicines, electricals, etc, as you will struggle to find those. Mosquito repellent is especially hard to find and vital if you’re visiting the more rural areas!

Any local snacks, dishes or drinks that should be sampled?
Cuba is not known for its food, but they do have incredible fruit, so be sure to enjoy the juices, as well as the rum, on its own and in cocktails. The plantain crisps are very moreish and the Cubano sandwich is also one to go for – it has an interesting mix of ingredients and definitely good to try!

Any restaurant or bar recommendations?
We didn’t visit many bars, but our first visit to a private restaurant in Havana was a tremendously pleasant surprise, so try Paladar Los Mercaderes. And we went to a restaurant called San Jose in Trinidad, which was also excellent!

Sum up your trip in a sentence.
A burst of vivid colours, smells and sounds, bringing joy to all the senses.