Product Manager Gary Tombs is wowed by the stunning landscapes and irresistible energy of Cuba on a trip from Havana to Viñales, Cienfuegos, Trinidad and Santa Clara.
How did you get there?
We flew with Air France via Paris, which went smoothly.
Where in Cuba did you go?
We spent 3 nights in Havana, 1 night in Las Terrazas, 3 nights in Viñales, 2 nights in Cienfuegos, 3 nights in Trinidad, 1 night in Santa Clara and 2 nights in Cayo Santa Maria.
What was your overall impression of the country?
Cuba is an utterly unique destination in so many ways. Its mind-boggling mix of pre-Columbian, Spanish, French, American, Caribbean, African and Soviet influences have created a twisted and tangled historical path, the future direction of which feels impossible to predict.
The architecture and culture are anarchically juxtaposed, drawing you in like a magic eye image that you can’t quite make sense of. The locals are the beating heart of the nation with a lust for life and energy that transcends their struggles and language barriers, to wrap you in a warm embrace.
Have you been before? If so, any notable differences?
I had travelled mainly around the east of the island in 2018, towards the end of the so called “Obama boom” years. This was when everyone was travelling to Cuba and they worried that the relationship with the US was improving so fast it might only be a matter of time before globalisation took hold, changing the character of the country forever.
Amongst the locals, there was a buzz on the streets and a real sense of excitement about what was to come. Tourists were everywhere, there was music on every corner and availability at hotels and homestays was almost impossible to find. Of course, a lot has changed since then and with US-Cuban relations cooling during the Trump and Biden administrations and Russia’s attention on Ukraine, I was not sure what to expect on my return.
What I found was a very pleasant surprise. While there wasn’t quite that same excitement that existed six years earlier, the warmth emanating from locals and their eagerness to spread joy remained undeniable.
Some aspects of modernity have taken hold - for example, all hotels and homestays now have Wifi and some genuinely luxurious accommodation is coming onto the market, but the charm and essence of the nation is very much intact. For good or bad, it seems Cuba will remain in an extraordinary time warp of its own for some time to come.
Which was your favourite…
Place: Trinidad
Hotel: Madero B&B (Havana)
Excursion: Trinidad and the Sugar Mill Valley
What were your most memorable moments?
Watching a monumental thunderstorm explode across the stunning backdrop of Viñales’ magical mogotes (rounded peaks), as we stood in wonder, observing from a dry lookout point perched over the valley below.
Another highlight was watching locals dance the night away in Casa de la Trova in Trinidad, totally awestruck by the quality of the music and the sheer, unadulterated joy. It was as if, for them, in that moment, all of the world’s sadness and fears had been lifted, and life, however fleetingly, was perfect.
Were there any surprises along the way?
We did the first part of the trip as a self-drive and prior to arrival, because of the difficulties importing goods to Cuba, I had anticipated a patched-up Frankenstein’s monster-style vehicle with the body of a Lada, the wheels of a bus and the engine of a lawnmower! However, the car we were given was a comfortable, modern sedan, with air-con, a digital display, blue-tooth connectivity and USB charging points. It was easy to drive, very spacious with suspension robust enough to deal with the occasionally challenging road surface. With cars and fuel difficult for locals to afford, there's also very little traffic, making self-drives a genuinely enjoyable way to travel.
What tips do you have for travellers who want to visit the same destinations?
Firstly, don’t rush. Travelling to Cuba is a bombardment of the senses. There is so much to experience and absorb that you really need to spend time in each place to take it all in. Secondly, make sure you interact with the locals and take advantage of your English-speaking guides. The people are what makes this country so special, so talk to them, ask for their stories, their opinions and their visions of the future, and you will leave with a far richer and more memorable experience.
Is there anything indispensable to pack or prepare for?
Sadly, Cuba is unable to import many types of goods, some of which we take for granted in the UK. You will struggle to find good mosquito repellent, sunscreen, medicines and electrical goods, including chargers, so don’t leave home without them.
Even stocks of bottled water can run low at times, so it is worth bringing a self-filtering bottle with you. These will allow you to safely drink the tap water, not only giving you peace of mind, but also reducing your plastic footprint.
Any local snacks, dishes or drinks that should be sampled?
Cuba is not one of Latin America’s great foodie destinations, but standards are improving fast and they do of course, have the Cubano sandwich. These are made with slightly sweet bread, roast pork, ham, cheese and pickles and normally served with mustard. What better way to wash that down, than with one of the country’s many iconic cocktails. Mojitos, daiquiris and Cuba Libres are just some of the drinks invented in Cuba and all three contain a generous measure of rum, a product of the nation’s once colossal sugar industry.
Any restaurant or bar recommendations?
In recent years, private enterprises have been allowed to open in Cuba and there are now many restaurants owned and operated by locals, rather than the government. They can often be identified by how busy they are. You can taste the pride and passion that owners put into their food, making them a tastier option than state-run alternatives. If in doubt, ask your guides for recommendations, but two of our favourites were the Paladar los Mercaderes in Havana and San Jose in Trinidad. By Cuban standards, they are both on the expensive side but possess a lively atmosphere and the food is some of the best available.
Sum up your trip in a sentence?
Educational, inspirational and joyous. You cannot help but fall in love with the place.
