Just Back From… Argentina with Hannah Waterhouse

How did you get there?

I flew to Buenos Aires with KLM via Amsterdam.

Whereabouts did you go?

Starting in Buenos Aires, I flew north to Posadas and then onward overland to Mocona Falls on the Brazil/Argentina border. I then headed west to Corrientes in the northern area of the Esteros del Iberá wetlands, then back north to Iguazú Falls via San Ignacio Miní. Finally, I flew down to Córdoba and finished off back in Buenos Aires.

Had you been before?

I had been to some areas before but Mocona Falls was a first, as was Estancia Los Potreros in Córdoba.

If so, any notable differences?

They have built some new walkways on the Argentine side of Iguazú since I was last there and this has definitely made the experience there much better. Buenos Aires seemed the same as ever (after all, if it’s not broken, don’t fix it), though the charming covered market in San Telmo is new.

Which was your favourite:

Place: Estancia Los Potreros in Córdoba is both a place and a hotel, offering an all-round fantastic experience with its horse-riding, asados and other gaucho-style activities.

Hotel: Puerto Valle. It has a spectacular location on the Paraná River, and the sunrise is just beautiful.

Excursion: Mocona Falls was a new one for me - waterfalls that are parallel to the river rather than perpendicular. As a result, they’re really long and only visible for half the year when the river level is low enough.

What was your most memorable moment?

Cantering on a Peruvian Paso horse in Los Potreros. I’d never ridden one before and it was a really smooth ride, even when we were picking up the pace.

Were there any surprises along the way?

Stopping at a tea plantation in Misiones where Twinings source some of their tea - I didn’t even know they grew tea in Argentina!

What tips do you have for travellers wanting to visit the same destinations?

The Misiones/Corrientes provinces of northeastern Argentina aren’t really that visited, so for something a bit more off the beaten track, I’d really recommend it. Puerto Valle is a great place to stay for an introduction to the wetlands and for a stay in a luxurious lodge. For a more in-depth wildlife experience, however, it’s better to go deeper into the wetlands. The Mocona Falls were something completely new for me and a different experience to Iguazú, along with other activities such as kayaking and zip-lining, this makes a great destination for people looking for something more adventurous.

Is there anything indispensible to pack or prepare for?

Take a huge wallet for the amount of pesos you get to the pound these days - you end up with a lot of notes! Most towns have money changers, so it’s a good idea to not change all your foreign currency at the start of your trip.

Any local snacks, dishes or drinks that should be sampled?

I really enjoyed the chipa bread up in Misiones. It’s a bit like the Brazilian pão de queijo, small balls made with manioc flour and stuffed with cheese. Plus the asados (Argentinian barbecues) which are available everywhere are never to be missed.

Any restaurant or bar recommendations?

They make some excellent ales down in Patagonia, so be sure to visit the Patagonia craft beer bar in Puerto Iguazú. The steaks are also mouth-watering.

Sum up your trip in a sentence?

It was great to see some offbeat parts of Argentina, re-visit some old favourites in Buenos Aires and Puerto Iguazú, and discover new areas like Mocona Falls.