Just Back From: Antarctica with Kathryn

How did you get there?
The ship departs from Ushuaia, so I made the most of a few days in Argentina beforehand, enjoying a few days in Buenos Aires and a fun excursion in Tierra del Fuego National Park. To get to Antarctica, it’s a choppy two days across the Drake Passage, but the onboard team have plenty to keep travellers entertained during that time, from lectures and briefings to games in the lounge.  

How long was the trip?
We spent nine days aboard the World Explorer, spending around two days each way on the Drake and an incredible five nights in Antarctica. 

Where in Antarctica did you go?
Being one of the shorter Antarctic voyages, we focused on the Antarctic Peninsula. Some of my favourite landings were at Cuverville and Danco Islands, and we also took zodiac cruises around Foyn Harbour and Cierva Cove. 

What was your overall impression of Antarctica?
Everything I had hoped it would be and more!  

Which was your favourite…?

Place: In terms of the shore landings, Danco Island sticks out in my mind as a place that really epitomises Antarctica. The weather that morning was wild, with snow falling and the sea a little bit choppy as we sped towards land on the zodiac. There was a large colony of gentoo penguins on the island, and watching these tiny creatures completely unperturbed by the weather while we were layered up against the elements was a surreal and humbling experience.  

Another highlight was an actual continental landing at the Brown research station, overlooking Paradise Harbour. And yet another was Cuverville Island, where the gentoos were really playful with each other and, thanks to more hospitable weather that day, we had a lot of fun watching them bringing pebbles to their mates, chasing rivals away, and of course being adorably clumsy. 

Hotel: The World Explorer was a very comfortable home for the nine nights we spent at sea. The cabins are modern and spacious, with plenty of storage space, and the observation lounge on the top deck is the perfect place to hang out between landings, with uninterrupted views of passing icebergs and the occasional marine mammal. The restaurant offered a great selection of food that varied daily and catered to all requirements, and the lounge bar had a cosy atmosphere in the evenings where informal after-dinner talks were often held by the expedition team.  

Excursion: It’s difficult to pick but I’m going to go with the infamous, adrenaline-fuelled polar plunge! For those who don’t know, this involves jumping into the icy water in your swimwear with a safety rope around your waist and a sauna awaiting you afterwards. We had a brave crowd, with 111 out of our 155 shipmates taking part. There was a giddy atmosphere onboard as the expedition leader announced that conditions were perfect for the activity, and as we were called down to the gangway to wait our turns the expedition team were there cheering everyone on. Jumping from the ship into –1.3 degrees water isn’t something I'll be forgetting any time soon! 

What were your most memorable moments? 
We crossed the Antarctic convergence line late on day 2. After a choppy crossing on the Drake suddenly the sea was flat and still, and as we stood out on deck it was really magical to see the first scattered sea ice passing by just as the sun was setting, almost to confirm we’d arrived at the seventh continent. We also saw our first penguin at this point, gliding past on a growler (a tiny iceberg). 

Were there any surprises along the way?
Nothing really prepares you for the reality of being in Antarctica and realising you’re at the end of the world where so few other people have been, so in a way everything is a surprise. The sheer scale is mind-blowing – think icebergs that dwarf the ship and mountains that disappear into the clouds – while the silent serenity of one moment gives way to the squawking of penguins and howling winds the next. Every hour spent in Antarctica offers something new to take your breath away! 

What tips do you have for travellers wanting to visit the same destinations? You’ll hear this a lot, but flexibility really is key to exploring and enjoying Antarctica. Weather conditions, the wellbeing of wildlife and safety are paramount concerns, and the expedition team work non-stop before every landing to consider all these factors before taking travellers ashore.  

Itinerary changes can happen at the last minute due to a sudden weather change or a distressed colony of penguins but ultimately if you embrace it and go with the flow, accepting that you’re in the most remote and untouched part of the world, you should find that it’s all part of the adventure!  

We were able to make seven out of our eight scheduled landings. On the one morning when bad weather made it impossible to get off the ship, we enjoyed a ship cruise through Charlotte Bay, observing enormous icebergs from the comfort of the lounge – so really, not all that bad! 

Is there anything indispensable to pack or prepare for?
The obvious things are layers – I found I was most comfortable wearing a couple of thermal layers beneath a jumper or two, fleecy hiking trousers and with waterproofs over the top. Quite trivial, but I also wore a pair of light fingerless gloves underneath my thicker waterproof gloves, which meant I was able to whip off the larger mitts and to take photos comfortably without my hands completely freezing!   

Any local snacks, dishes or drinks that should be sampled?
In certain conditions, your expedition guides may be able to pick up a piece of glacial ice that’s been cast adrift and use it for drinks at the bar! 

• Kathryn travelled on an itinerary similar to Journey Latin America's 13-day Signature Antarctica, flying to Buenos Aires and including a nine-day cruise from Ushuaia.