Just Back From: Antarctica with Chris

Travel Expert Chris Rendell-Dunn explores the icy expanses of Antarctica, including cruising through spectacular Lemaire Channel and kayaking among icebergs to spot penguins and seals.

Which regions did you visit?
Argentina and Antarctica.

How did you get there?
I flew with British Airways direct to Buenos Aires from Heathrow and after a couple of nights of exploration in the Argentine capital, I flew to Ushuaia, in Tierra del Fuego. We always advise our clients to have a couple of positioning nights before a cruise, so I stayed 2 nights in Ushuaia before embarking on a 12-night cruise to the Antarctic Peninsula.

Where did you go?
I was extremely lucky to join a basecamp expedition cruise itinerary on board the Ortelius that after crossing the Drake Passage, spends eight or nine days exploring the Antarctic Peninsula. We visited Neumayer Channel, Port Lockroy, Pléneau and Petermann Islands, Neko Harbour, Paradise Bay and Errera Channel.

Have you been before?
To Argentina, yes – I was last there in 2008 for my honeymoon in Buenos Aires, but this was my first visit to Ushuaia and Antarctica.

Which was your favorite...?

Place: The Lemaire Channel. It's very narrow so the views of the glaciers and mountains up close are spectacular – and we did this at dawn, which made the experience even more phenomenal.

Hotel: Las Hayas in Ushuaia. The hotel is located on a hillside and boasts spectacular views of the Beagle Channel, plus the food was delicious.

Excursion: Kayaking in Antarctica among icebergs and spotting leopard seals and penguins.

What was your most memorable moment?
There are too many incredible memories, but being on a basecamp itinerary* meant we had lots of opportunities to be active during the trip with many offshore excursions involving hikes, kayaking and even camping on the ice for one night! To choose one, it has to be the polar plunge which I did on the final day of our cruise on Deception Island - you jump off the boat into the water, and then head straight for the sauna!

*Note: these itineraries differ from other itineraries because the ship visits a more limited number of locations on the Antarctic Peninsula, giving you more time for shore-based and zodiac excursions.

Were there any surprises along the way?
Most people worry about crossing the Drake Passage, a two-day crossing in each direction in usually rough seas. So I was hugely surprised and relieved to have a smooth crossing there and back. Drake Passage - more like Drake Lake!

Another surprise was the calving of a huge iceberg - the size of a huge building - flipping over in the ocean. Not even the expedition team had witnessed such an incredible sight!

What tips do you have for travellers who want to visit the same destinations?
Although this was an active cruise itinerary, you don’t always have to opt for an active excursion; there are more gentle options available to those who want to do a shorter walk. On the other hand, if you're looking for a challenge, the cruise operator also offers mountaineering! Excursions don't need to be pre-booked so you can make up your mind when you’re there.

Is there anything indispensable to pack or prepare for?
You don’t have to pack heavy-duty hiking boots – unless you want to go mountaineering, as muck boots are provided. When you’re off the ship on an excursion, it’s advisable to wear lots of layers as you warm up quickly on the hikes but if you’re on a Zodiac and sitting down for a while, you’ll certainly feel the cold. Walking poles are useful and necessary.

Any local snacks, dishes or drinks that should be sampled?
In Buenos Aires, I did the Flavours of San Telmo walking food tour. We got the chance to try a variety of empanadas and different cuts of steak, and sample several delicious wines and beers. In Ushuaia, I had the opportunity to eat centolla (king crab), a must for anyone visiting during its season.

Any restaurant or bar recommendations?
Grandes Carnicerias del Plata in San Telmo, Buenos Aires. It has a very authentic atmosphere, and the steak served there was one of the best I’ve ever eaten.

Sum up your trip in a sentence.
This was by far one of the most incredible journeys I have taken in my life and I feel very privileged and humbled to have reached Antarctica, which I know for many people remains at the top of their bucket list destinations.

• Browse Journey Latin America's varied range of holidays to Antarctica.