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Torres del Paine

Torres del Paine is renowned for its multi-day hikes that allow you to penetrate deep into the heart of this Patagonian wonderland, through its towering massifs, canyons and lakes. Less known, however, is how much of the park can be explored on day hikes: good news for those of us who would prefer to come back to a cosy lodge in the evening, travelling light when on the trail.

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Torres del Paine: an overview

Torres del Paine is centred around a cluster of peaks, the Cerro Paine Grande, and a collection of large lakes. South of these lakes is an access road that opens the park up to Puerto Natales, while on their northern banks and beyond is a world-famous network of paths.

Two treks named after their shapes provide travellers with a handy pair of itineraries for exploring Torres del Paine: the W and O treks.

The W trek runs along the northern shores of Lake Nordernskjöld and Pudeto and has three offshoots to Glacier Grey, French Valley and Mirador Base. Trekking the whole route takes roughly four nights. The O trek, going all the way around the Cerro Paine Grande, is an eight-day undertaking by comparison.

 

Doing the W Trek as day hikes

Named due to its three-pronged shape, the W Trek attracts hikers from across the world – 250,000 of them each year, in fact. Astounding yet accessible, the well-maintained trail paths go through French Valley and up to Mirador Base, a crystalline lake at the foot of the park’s famous granite towers.

Along each leg and at their base are outpost accommodations called refugios, equipped with campsites, rooms, bars and small restaurants. Their design is simple, but they provide the necessary facilities after a day of hiking.

 

The Lago Grey leg

Glacier in Torres Del Paine National Park

The westernmost leg of the W is a very up-and-down affair, meandering its way through a valley, up its steep sides and snaking along the mountains that plunge into the lake. The reward at the end is a view of the Grey Glacier, named after a scientist and more impressive than its name suggests – electric blue on the side and powdered with snow atop. Gazing upon this icy wonder is a serene experience interrupted by the occasional calving of an iceberg.

The trailhead begins at Refugio Paine Grande, although you can also hike it as a day trip from the park’s more upscale lodges by taking the catamaran across Lake Pudeto.

Hiking to Glacier Grey and back from Refugio Paine Grande (and the catamaran dock) takes approximately 5.5 hours. The catamaran takes roughly half an hour to cross the lake and its timings vary – your lodge should be able to advise.

 

French Valley

Known for its trails through some of the most pristine lenga forests in the park with views of Los Cuernos peaks (the horns), French Valley is topped by a glacier at its mouth and its rumblings reverberate throughout the valley.

Hiking to French Valley as a day trip is best done from Refugio Paine Grande, much like Glacier Grey. The trek begins on relatively flat terrain along a lake before reaching a fairly basic campsite, taking 2.5 hours. From here, it’s another hour to get to Mirador Frances, from which you’ll have a spectacular view of the valley and the lakes to the south. While you could press on to Mirador Britanico at the northern end of the trail, we’d only recommend doing this if you’re staying at Refugio Paine Grande, since otherwise you’d miss the last catamaran of the day.

 

Mirador Base

Torres Del Paine National Park

Mirador Base may be the most iconic view in all of Patagonia. The bright blue lake beneath Torres del Paine’s iconic granite towers is a picturesque reward for the hike it takes to get there through the steppes, lenga forests and hanging bridges.

Logistically, Mirador Base is the easiest leg of the W trek to do as a day hike, given that the trailhead sits right beside EcoCamp Torres del Paine and an access road. You can even do this trek as a day trip from Puerto Natales.

The access road is unpaved and starts from the Laguna Amarga entrance, Torres del Paine’s main eastern entrance. Driving from the entrance to the trailhead takes about 20 minutes. Allow 7-9 hours in total for the trail itself.

Other day hikes

Salto Grande waterfall

Mary Anne Nelson ©

The thunderous roar of Salto Grande and the whisps of mist catapulted into the air make it a must-visit for waterfall-loving visitors – additionally, it sits an easy 20-minute walk from the Pudeto Catamaran’s roadside ferry terminal.

The trail also continues for another hour northwards to Mirador Cuernos, which provides a view up French Valley across the lake – this makes it a good alternative if you haven’t got the time to do French Valley itself.

Laguna Azul

ShutterStock ©

Serene and far removed from the park’s main action yet blessed with a view of the granite towers across the lake nonetheless, Laguna Azul is proof that one does not need to venture too far off the beaten track to find seemingly untouched wilderness. Hike from Laguna Azul to Laguna Cebolla (the rather comically named Onion Lake) for the best views and keep your eyes out for wildlife such as guanacos, upland geese and black-necked swans.

Hiking to Laguna Cebolla takes a total of five hours and, while it can be a little challenging, is generally considered family-friendly. Since the trail lies outside the national park’s boundary, you may want to save this one for a date not included in your entrance ticket.

Mirador Ferrier

Located on Lago Grey’s western side, Mirador Ferrier makes for a good alternative to the Glacier Grey leg of the W trek since it offers spectacular views of both the glacier and Los Cuernos beyond. Passing through a lesser-visited area of the park, this section hosts a small population of endangered huemul deer, so keep your eyes out. While it only takes three hours, its steep ascent means you may want to allow more time to rest.

Recommended accommodation for day treks

EcoCamp Torres del Paine: located by the trailhead to Mirador Base and offering glamping-style accommodation in domes, EcoCamp is a fine place to lose yourself among the lenga trees.

Eco camp, Torres del paine

Explora Patagonia: Explora’s rooms, hot tubs and restaurant all command five-star views of the Cerro Paine Grande across the lake, with service and cuisine to match. All stays include a smorgasbord of explorations in the company of an expert guide, including the day treks listed here and other activities such as puma-spotting and kayaking.

EXPLORA ©

Refugio Paine Grande: Like other refugios, accommodation at Paine Grande is basic, a choice between camping and backpacker-style dorms. Nevertheless, its location can’t be beaten, situated by the Pudeto ferry terminal and the trailheads to Glacier Grey and French Valley.

CHI_TorresDelPaine_TorresDelPaineRefugios (4)

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