Where to go when - our guide to Ecuador & Galapagos Islands

December - February

This is the wet season in the Andean highlands, including Otavalo, Quito, the Avenue of the Volcanoes and Cuenca. However, the region enjoys year round spring-like temperatures (daytime 21°C average) with a good amount of sunshine in the mornings. Short heavy afternoon downpours are common, particularly in December. January to mid-February receives a little less rain, but it picks up again mid February.

The marginally warmer cloud forests reserves of Mindo, Mashpi and Bellavista see less sunshine and more rain than the highlands during these months. The rainy season is considered the best time for birdwatchers and the annual bird count takes place in December.

Christmas is a family celebration with many shops and restaurants closed. New Year sparks big celebrations, with many heading to the milder lower altitude spa town of Baños (1800m), or to the Pacific beaches for sunny blue-sky days, average highs of 30°C and rising sea temperatures. Being the wet season here, late afternoon tropical downpours are common.

In the Galapagos you can expect clear blue skies and rising temperatures (from average highs of 26°C in December to 30°C in February) as the wet season starts in December. Light afternoon showers, mostly in the highlands, become increasingly common and turn the arid landscapes greener. The sea gets warmer by the month, rising from 23°C to 25°C, and underwater visibility means fantastic snorkelling and diving. It’s a busy time on land too, with many species mating, nesting or breeding. Giant tortoise eggs begin to hatch in December and pacific green turtles lay eggs on the beaches in January, which is also a great time for swimming with penguins. Marine iguanas become brightly coloured and flamingos can be seen much more easily as they nest in February.

In the Amazon you can expect average highs of 30°C most of the year and intense tropical downpours at any time, although January and February experience (relatively) lower rainfall. River navigation becomes trickier but forest trails are easier to explore and water levels in rivers & lakes are lower making the exposed sandy banks a great place to spot caiman, beach nesting birds and mammals. Lakes become more concentrated with fish, with the rich pickings attracting certain birds and animals.

Carnival (February/March) is celebrated throughout the country with lots of music, dance and colourful parades. Boisterous street festivities include flour and water throwing from which no bystander is immune!

June - August

In the Andean highlands, including Otavalo, Quito, the Avenue of the Volcanoes and Cuenca, June marks the arrival of dry season. These are the sunniest and driest although coolest months of the year, with average highs of around 19°C during the day and chilly nights. July and August are the best months for hiking in the highlands whilst the birding trails in the lower altitude cloud forest reserves of Mindo, Mashpi and Bellavista are less muddy and visitors can enjoy more sun, less rain and temperatures of around 24°C. On the summer solstice (16-24th June) Indigenous communities throughout the highlands celebrate Inti Raymi (Festival of the Sun) with ancient rituals and colourful cultural events.

June is the hottest and wettest month in the Amazon. Temperatures are over 32°C and frequent intense afternoon rains swell rivers and lakes to their highest levels. With much of the lower lying forest floor flooded, navigation by expedition cruise or motorised canoes is easy and brings a unique dimension to wildlife viewing. Marking the transition into the dry (or drier) season, total rainfall and average temperatures drop off in July and again in August, although with an average of 30°C it’s still hot and humid. Waters recede and the exposed riverbanks and beaches once again become the best place to spot wildlife, including caiman and mammals.

These are the cooler dry season months on the Pacific coast, although it is still hot with average highs of 28°C. With very little rain, humidity also drops and the ocean continues to cool down, intensifying the almost permanent haze which considerably reduces hours of sunshine during this time. Humpback whales start to arrive in June and July and August are the best months for whale watching.

The Galapagos dry season starts in June, with lower average highs of 24°C and cooler evenings that may require a light sweater. Colder ocean currents (23-21.5°C) create trade winds and choppier seas, hazy skies and a light mist in the highlands. They also bring lots of nutrients creating fantastic underwater wildlife opportunities to see large shoals of fish and pods of dolphins and humpbacks, orcas and whale sharks in July and August. On land, giant tortoises descend from the highlands to nest in June while many sea bird colonies are particularly active during these months, including the iconic flightless cormorants whose beautiful courtship displays begin in July. August sees the beginning of the sea lion pupping season.